I have never had a pizza made by Ciro Iovine at any one of his four Song’ E Napule Pizzeria and Trattoria restaurants.
But I have had his handmade pizzas at several events where he was one of the guest pizzaioli.
I took this picture of Ciro a few years ago at an event where the art of Neapolitan pizzamaking was being granted World Heritage Status by the United Nations and was being added to UNESCO’s “Intangible list.”
Recently I attended a Masterclass PizzaLab promotion for Italian Cuisine in the World in NYC. Ciro one one of two pizzaioli making pizza at the event. After tasting his pizza, I have come to the conclusion that he is a great pizzaiolo in the Neapolitan tradition.
Ciro is on the right
While visiting a friend in New Jersey recently, I had an opportunity to have lunch at the Rutherford branch of Song’ E Napule (from the song by Pino Daniele). Ciro wasn’t there making the pizza for us personally, but his spirit and love for the food of Napoli was evident in everything we ate. Here is what we had:
Calamari Fritti served with San Marzano tomato sauce. Fried calamari are served everywhere, but these were exceptional. Perfectly fried, crunchy and not at all greasy.
Insalata Di Polpo: chilled Mediterranean octopus, organic parsley and lemon citronette dressing. Tender octopus with arugula in a tangy dressing.
A surprise offering from the chef was a slice of melted provola cheese in a breadcrumb crust topped with tomato sauce, which we devoured.
The Pizza Oven
The Pizza
Pizza Margherita — Tomato Sauce (made with Slow Food San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane tomatoes), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), basil and extra virgin olive oil.
Vegetarian Pizza –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di agerola), zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms, artichoke, broccoli rabe, basil and extra virgin olive oil.
Pizza Napoletana –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di agerola), anchovies, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.
Barbera d’ Asti “Vigna Noce” 1997 Antica Azienda Agricola Trinchero. Made from 100% Barbera. The winery belongs to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists, an association of wine producers from around the world that believes in Organic and Bio-Dynamic production, terroir and as little interference as possible by the wine maker. Only natural yeast is used, there is no acidification of the wine, clarification and filtration does not take place. Chemical treatments are not used in the vineyards; copper and sulfur are used but only when it is really necessary. The wine is aged for 7 years in large chestnut barrels. This is a traditional, classic Barbera that will last for at least another 5/10 years.
For a sweet finish, we had Pizza Dough Fritters drizzled with Nutella imported from Italy.
A good espresso is the perfect ending.
Song’ E Napule is located at 106 Park Ave, Rutherford NJ (201) 347-9339.
There are 3 other locations all in Manhattan: 146 West Houston St., 646 Amsterdam Ave, and 132 West Houston St.
I look forward to the day when I can have pizza made personally by Ciro at one of his restaurants.
Over the years I have spoken to him at pizza events and we are friends on FB but we never sat down and had Pizza together. I believe Daniel saw one of my blogs on Pizza and Champagne of which there are many. Daniel mentioned that he had never had Champagne with Pizza so I told him next time he was
Daniel brought his son and I invited Frank, a friend who brought his son. The two boys enjoyed each other’s company and the pizza (even without Champagne).
We started with the Margherita — my favorite pizza
Champagne Ruinart Blanc De Blancs 100% Chardonnay from
Pizza with sausage
Pizza Montanara with truffles
Champagne Baron-Fuente Brut Vintage made from 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 15% Pinot Noir. The wine is aged in the cellar for 8 years and the Dosage is 8g/l. It has hints of citrus fruit, white peaches, a touch of red
Daniel, Frank and I really enjoyed Roberto’s terrific pizzas with these champagnes. The two young boys ate heartily and played chess together. By the time our meal was over, they had become pals. When Frank visited London recently with his son, Daniel and he arranged a reunion for the boys over — what else? — pizza, this time at Kalo’ 50, one of the city’s top Neapolitan pizzerias.
Pizza Zucchini
Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018 made from 100% Sangiovese Tenuta Di Nozzole (Tuscany). The vineyards are at 300 meters. The yields are kept low to obtain concentration and complexity in the wine. The grapes are hand harvested, destemmed and crushed. Fermentation takes place on the skins
Pizza Margherita — the simplest and the best pizza in my opinion is a pizza Margherita, topped with fresh mozzarella, tomato sauce, basil and a final drizzle of olive oil. The quality of its Margherita is the true test of any pizzeria. The fragrance and richness of the fruit and the warmth of this traditional wine makes it a perfect combination with Pizza Margherita. 
Barbera Nizza “Cipressi” DOCG 2018 Made from 100% Barbera, Michele Chiarlo (Piedmont). The grapes are grown in a type of soil called “astiane sand.” It consists of
Pizza with Sausage, Mozzarella, Onion and Peppers — Barbera is my first choice for this pizza because the hearty combination of toppings are enhanced by the wine’s fruit flavor and good acidity. 
Pinot Nero Rosé Umbria IGT 2020 Made from 100% Pinot Nero Tenuta Di Salviano. Made from a single vineyard located on the right bank of Lake Corbara in Umbria at 1,640 ft. The soil is calcareous-clayey. The farming is organic. The manual harvest starts in late August and only select bunches are chosen. Destemming does not take place so the grapes are pressed quickly. Fermentation is in steel tanks at a low temperature and then the wine spends 6 months on the lees. This is a fresh, fragrant, delicate and fruity wine with hints of red fruit, strawberry, cherry, a touch of citrus and good acidity.
Foccacia — Topped with rosemary, coarse salt and extra virgin olive oil, a focaccia, while not exactly a pizza, is a close relation. With it’s simple clear flavors, I like to serve it with this delicate, fruity rose’, and perhaps some cold cuts as a starter or a snack. 
Reggiano Lambrusco NV “Concerto”
Summer Pizza–Mozzarella, prosciutto, whole grape tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil, top this light and fresh pie and make a perfect combination with the lively, cool flavors of the Lambrusco. The slightly salty flavor of prosciutto di Parma enhances the combination.
Panzerotti — Neapolitan potato croquettes, crisp on the outside and filled with melting mozzarella and bits of prosciutto
Pizza Pala — Light and airy crust with tomato, basil and mozzarella, baked in a slab.
Pizza Margarita — Regular Neapolitan style pie 
Pizza Margherita with prosciutto and arugula
Monte di Grazie Rosso 2011 The wine is made from 90% Tintore di Tramonti from very old ungrafted vines and 10% Piedirosso. The Tintore di Tramonti grows almost exclusively in the Monte Lattari Valley. The grape is harvested at the end of September, which makes it an early ripener for this area. This indigenous red grape variety belongs to the Tienturier family. Tienturier means dyed or stained in French. The flesh and the juice of these grapes are red in color. The anthocyanin pigments accumulate in the grape berry itself. The free run juice is therefore red.
We started with Roses de Jeanne Champagne–100% Pinot Noir from the 1.5-hectare lieu-dit of Val Vilaine. The production is very limited. Cedric Bouchard. This is a single-vineyard, single varietal, and single-vintage, zero dosage Champagne, organic farming, low yields and harvesting at the right moment. Only free run juice is used and fermentation is in stainless steel with indigenous yeast. There is no filtering, fining or cold stabilization. The wines are bottled with no dosage under less pressure. This is full-bodied Champagne with hints of fruit, spice, lively acidity a touch of pear, a note of dried flowers and a long and lingering finish.
Deborah made the pizza dough according to her special recipe
Bramaterra 1979 made from 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina and 10% Vespolina. Tenuta Agricola Sella. The production area is in Northern Piedmont. The vines are 48 years old, the exposure is Southwest, the vineyard is at 300 to 350 meters the training system is guyot and the soil is volcanic in origin and reddish brown in color. Harvest takes place between September 22 and October 12. After the grapes are crushed, fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with pumping over and delestage. There is 30 days maceration for the Nebbiolo and 16 for the Croatina. The wine is aged in 10 hl Slavonian oak casks for 28 months. There were hints of faded roses, leather, blackberries and a hint of spice.
Foccacia — We started with a white pizza sprinkled with sliced garlic and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. It was delicious plain, and possibly even better with thin slices of mortadella or prosciutto on top.
Pizza Margarita — The classic pie and just perfect
Pizza with Pistacchios — After a couple of traditional pizzas, we moved on to some innovative ones, including this one topped with chopped pistachios, shallots and herbs.
Pizza with pastrami, sauteed shallots and cheese. It reminded me of an Alsatian Tarte Flambe’. Some guests added a dab of mustard, but I liked it without.
Chateaneuf-du-Pape 1995 Domaine Du Pegau made from 80% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 10% other varieties. The soil is mostly covered with pebbles, clay and limestone mixture tends to iron and sand. There is a manual harvest with no destemming. Natural yeast causes spontaneous fermentation which takes place in concrete tanks. maceration is for 12 days in 50hl old oak casks for 2 years. This is a big complex wine with black ripe fruit, hints of cherries and plums, black pepper, leather and a touch of meat. It was the wine of the afternoon and will last for many more years.
Pizza with salmon. Lightly smoked salmon topped this pie, one of our favorites of the day.
Pizza with sausage and mozzarella — always a crowd pleaser.
Pizza Margarita with bufala mozzarella. Instead of cow’s milk mozzarella, this Margarita was made with bufala cheese.
Barolo Riserva 1964 Giacomo Borgogno and Figli 100% Nebbiolo. The grapes come from three different cru vineyards: Cannubi, Liste and Fossati. The winery is located in the center of the town of Barolo. The wine is aged at least five years in large oak barrels. This is a wine produced with traditional and natural wine making methods. Long fermentation and pumping over by hand takes place. Today the Farinetti family that also owns Eataly owns the winery. I have always had very good luck with older vintages of Borgogno. This is a classic traditional Barolo with hints of red fruit, tar, tobacco, violets, cedar and a touch of balsam.
Banana Cream Pie by Deborah. For dessert, we moved on to another type of pie altogether, an all-American Banana Cream Pie with a graham cracker crust and fresh whipped cream topping.
The pie did not cooperate when cut, so we ate it from bowls with a spoon. Is deconstructed Banana Cream Pie going to be the next big thing? I highly recommend it!
Charles Scicolone on Wine 