jckarter

everyone already knows i'm a dog

the swift programming language is my fault to some degree. mostly here to see dogs, shitpost, fix old computers, and/or talk about math and weird computer programming things. for effortposts check the #longpost pinned tag. asks are open.


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mailto:joe@duriansoftware.com

The previous owner of this FM TOWNS UX20 thoughtfully removed the CMOS battery from the computer to keep it from exploding and damaging the electronics inside, but unfortunately, TOWNS OS uses the CMOS settings to remember whether you have a hard drive and what drive letter(s) to use for it, so without a battery, you have to reconfigure the hard drive every time you power up. So I opened it up to put a new battery inside. There isn't a lot of documentation on the English Internet about taking these machines apart, so I'll walk through how I did it here. Like anything with a CRT in it, be careful about extremely high voltages that may still be charged inside!


Back side of the computer, showing the location of the five screws to remove it

Five Philips head screws hold the case to the back of the computer. One of them is inside the door that protects the RGB in port. Two screws near the bottom and the one inside the door (marked in red ⇒▢) are interchangeable, but the two screws on the top (marked in green ➦◯) are different, so keep them sorted after removing them. If there are expansion cards in the expansion slots, remove those too, since they mount to the back case.

Insides of the computer from the back, highlighting the connectors that need to be removed to disconnect the logic board

Sort of like a compact Mac, there's the CRT tube and high-voltage analog electronics in the top half of the case, and lower-voltage digital electronics in the bottom. Thankfully, we only (mostly) need to look at that lower half today. The computer part of the machine, including the logic board, video board, and floppy drives, slides out from the back after being detached. To do that, there are two screws (marked in red ⇒▢) to remove from the bottom of the metal shielding, as well as several connectors spread across the various sides of the machine. The first one is the connector with several thick gray and white wires and one thin blue wire (marked in green ➦◯). When reconnecting this connector later, the blue wire goes toward the inside of the machine.

Insides of the computer from the top, highlighting the power connector that needs to be removed from the analog board

Our one excursion into the high-voltage top half is to remove this one power connector (marked in blue ➪⬡). Do it very slowly and carefully, since it hugs the pins very tightly, and the plastic mounts for the analog boards are very flimsy. You also don't want to bang it into the CRT deflection coils right behind it when it comes loose…

Insides of the computer from the left, highlighting the three connectors and ground lug that need to be disconnected

The remaining connectors to remove are on the left side of the machine. The ground lug (marked in red ⇒▢) needs to be unscrewed. There are three connectors accessible in the space to the right of it: a two-wire JST connector, a ribbon cable in a ZIF socket (marked in green ➦◯), and behind them an IDC connector (marked in blue ➪⬡). The IDC connector has some slack, so you can pull the computer out a bit to get better access to it from outside. Later when reconnecting these cables, the JST and IDC connectors are keyed, but the ribbon cable is not, so remember what way it's facing; in my case, the printed side was facing toward the outside of the computer.

The computer part, removed from the case, shown from the top

With all those connectors removed, the computer and power supply should pull out the back. The CMOS battery compartment is underneath the second floppy drive on the right.

Underside of the floppy drive, highlighting the plastic tab to release it

The floppy drives pull right out from the backplane behind them. You just need to push down the plastic tab underneath one (marked in red ⇒▢) to release it.

Floppy drive removed, showing the CMOS door beneath it

Underneath, a reflective black plastic door protects the battery compartment. Removing the one screw frees it.

Connector for the CMOS battery

At last, here is the connector for the CMOS battery, silkscreened CN14 on the board (marked in blue ➪⬡). The connector is a JST PH style connector.

CR2450 battery holder with soldered wires and JST PH connector

From what pictures I could find online, the original CMOS batteries Fujitsu used were CR2450s with welded leads. I don't like to solder batteries if I can avoid it, so I got a socketed battery holder instead. I had a wireset with a JST connector already that I'd taken from another battery, so I reused it here. (As noted in the picture, the red and black wires are reversed from the pinout the FM TOWNS wants, so the black wire is carrying +3V and red is ground.)

With that done, and everything put back together, I can actually install TOWNS OS and some software on the hard drive!


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in reply to @jckarter's post:

Someone once told me that a simple way to help protect yourself when preparing to open hardware with a CRT inside is to let it sit, unplugged, for at least twenty-four hours.

Since you've done this work and I've never done anything like it, do you think this precaution seems reasonable?

I’m not a pro by any means, so yeah, that’s one of the bits of advice I follow, along with:

  • if the power supply has a hardware on/off switch, turn it “on” after unplugging it so lingering charge in the capacitors has a chance to discharge through the circuitry
  • wear insulating gloves
  • use non-metal pliers/tweezers/screwdrivers if you need to reach between high voltage components
  • if you do have to get your hands in, keep one hand behind your back so that there isn’t a path through your chest for any sudden discharges