Gravedona – Touring the towns of Lake Como
September 4, 2021
Our mountain rustico, although 1150m up from Lake Como, is officially in the commune of Gravedona ed Uniti. Therefore this makes Gravedona our “local” town (it takes 30 minutes to drive down the mountain to get there, but hey).
As such we have treated it as I’m sure many people treat their local town, as a convenience: We go there for the shopping, petrol, the occasional lunch in our favourite local restaurant, to find essentials needed for up the mountain (the local hardware store literally has everything we’ve asked for…so far).
Time to give Gravedona the time it deserves and see what’s hidden away.
What we found in Gravedona
We always head to the waters edge part of town in Gravedona, mainly for views of Lake Como whilst enjoying a gelato. Heading south along the lake to the outskirts of town, we came across two churches, beautifully positioned right on the lake-front and both totally different from each other.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Tiglio and Chiesa di San Vincenzo
In a stunning position right next door to each other, they couldn’t be more different. Santa Maria del Tiglio, from the 5th/6th century, has a gothic and natural feel to it, while Chiesa di San Vincenzo is more modern, with painted walls and ceilings and tiled floors, although no spring chicken being built in the 10th/11th century.
Gravedona harbour
A walk through the narrow streets...
…behind the waterfront and up to Gravedona Castle. Along the streets there are information plaques explaining the history of the town. We never even knew there used to be a castle in Gravedona until we wandered the alleys. A walk up to the piazza where the castle used to be and we found ourselves with a splendid view over the lakeside area of Gravedona. A moment to admire and reflect. 
Palazzo Gallio
We tried to visit the gardens of the Villa, Palazzo Gallio. Unfortunately the gates were firmly closed. The building is now used to house the offices for the Comunità Montana Alto Lario Occidentale. But they do open up the halls for some music events. This year was the Gravedona Chamber Music Festival. Tickets were a little elusive as you needed to print out your ticket at home…hmm, no printer.. We did however, discover a good view of the villa from a small pebble beach that’s tucked away down a flight of stairs. Without our wander we wouldn’t have known this little beach was there, and totally devoid of the camping crowds that tend to be the tourist backbone of these areas. Noted for future sunbathing and lake swimming trips.Gormet in Gravedona
There are two fantastic restaurants (IMHO) in Gravedona, both a couple of minutes walk from the waterfront.
Osteria Ca De Matt
We were delighted when we decided to partake in a lunch here. We were expecting an indoor experience as the restaurant is in a small alley away from the water, but were instead taken up some stairs to a beautiful undercover terrace in between the old houses of Gravedona.
The food lived up to the amazing ambiance. A small amuse-bouche was presented before our ordered courses. House-made pastas with amazing sauces, one with pea cream, hazelnuts and amaretti (above) and their specialty with a local cheese called bitto and fresh herbs, so simple but totally delicious. Followed by fresh local veal cheek and venison loin. Heaven.
Meaning ‘cellar and shop’.
Housed in the vaulted cellar of an old family home, the atmosphere is very special. It’s run by a husband and wife team and their family still live in the building upstairs. The food ethos is pure and organic, including the excellent wine selection. The menu is small, the food from local producers and everything tastes fresh. We are always made to feel so welcome here.
A few words about gelato....
We seldom visit Gravedona without a stop to the local artisan Gelateria La Carapiña.
Why is Italian gelato so good?
Not made with cream, but instead made with milk and apparently not whipped like English ice-cream, which makes gelato less airy, thicker and more flavoursome. I can vouch for the rich taste and velvety smoothness of a good gelato. Less fat? Well that’s just an added bonus and removes any excuse to indulge whenever an opportunity passes (and in Italy, that is often).
The flavours are also something very unique to gelato. There are different flavours depending on the season. Castagne? That’s chestnut, next on my list to try. My favourite though is chocolate fondente, a deep dark chocolate gelato, paired with fragola (strawberry), a match made in heaven. In my opinion, gelato should always be ordered with due gusti (two flavours).
Advice about a good gelataria – an Italian told me that for the best quality gelato, go to the places that are “artisinale” and serve the gelato from metal tubs rather than the mounds of brightly coloured gelato on display in trays.
As ‘La Fabbrica Del Gelato’ in Lenno says of its gelato:
“Dove La natura sceglie i colori” – Where nature chooses the colours. Exactly as it should be.
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