Foligno at Sunset, Italy
Umbria is the Italian region you never knew you needed. Do you like wine? Eating delicious meals? Roman ruins? Medieval architecture? Cobblestone villages? Amazing art and frescoes? Almost no crowds? Umbria is the answer to it all. Foligno is a mid-size Umbrian town that most visitors only know as a train junction. But there is so much more to this place than its railway station. It has a lovely and sizeable town centre, mostly dating to recent times, which is full of shops and restaurants – all mostly full of locals. There are a number of churches and a seemingly modest palace that hides an amazing display of frescoes – I mean, we’re talking room after room of frescos, paintings, triptychs, and more – and you just might be the only visitor. Unfortunately, that all-important rail junction meant that Foligno suffered bombings during WWII, leaving only a few of its medieval buildings intact. Luckily, this included the early 15th century Romanesque church of Saint Giacomo whose spire rises up through the centre of the town. On the northern side, the town is bordered by the narrow ribbon of water, the Fiume Topino, which has a lovely riverside path perfect for walking, running or cycling (fun fact – the Topino is mentioned by Dante in the 3rd instalment of his Divine Comedy, Paradiso). So next time you’re changing platforms at Foligno, take the time to give this bustling town a chance – or better yet, explore Foligno and its environs by bike.
Tip: On the cultural side, marvel at the frescoes and other wonders in the Palazzo Trinci museum. For an active visit, rent a bike (there are a number of places to do so in Foligno or nearby Spello) and explore the area – for example, bike from Foligno to the wine-producing town of Montefalco, taking in villages like Spello, Assisi or Bevagna en route.
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