• Nemrut Dagi, Anatolia orientale

    Ozymandias,  poesia di Percy Bysshe Shelley, narra le emozioni di un viaggiatore da terre lontane provocate dalla contemplazione di una statua di un potente re del passato , distrutta e mezza sepolta nella sabbia. Il tempo consuma, indebolisce e rende gli uomini vulnerabili, rendendo anche coloro che un tempo regnavano su grandi imperi, esposti alla inesorabile forza della natura. Ramses II, così come Antioco I di Commagene, un tempo  monarchi assoluti di vasti imperi, giacciono ora nella nuda terra, memore di tanto splendore.

    Arrivata a Nemrut Dagi all’alba, ho avuto le stesse impressioni di quel viaggiatore solitario della poesia di Shelley, nel contemplare le rovine del santuario religioso dedicato ad Antioco I re di Commagene. Uno spettacolo mozzafiato si apre all’orizzonte dalla lastra sacrificale della terrazza orientale, su vaste aree montagnose e valli  bagnate dal fiume Eufrate. Lo sguardo si perde all’infinito, la mente non riesce a rendere per scritto le bellezze di questa Terra appartenente alla storia dell’umanità, l’antica Mesopotamia, che inizia qui nella parte sud orientale della Turchia per estendersi poi nella bassa Mesopotamia, in Syria e Iraq.

    `Half sunken a shattered visage lies…’, questi i versi di una delle più belle poesie della letteratura occidentale scritte sui vasti imperi dimenticati e caduti nell’oblio e una forte meditazione sull’ineluttabilità del tempo.

    P. B. Shelley, Ozymandias

    Per tutti coloro che vogliono visitare questo meraviglioso sito archeologico consiglio di  soggiornare a Kahta, e raggiungere il sito all’alba o con un mezzo proprio o aggregandosi a un tour. Io ho soggiornato al Nemrut Commagene Hotel di Kahta, una gestione abbastanza spartana ma essenziale e sufficiente per trascorrere una notte. Non consiglio di fermarsi nella cittadina più a lungo in quanto offre poche scelte per pranzo e cena.

     Una nota interessante: l’inglese è poco conosciuto in questa zona, né i tassisti, né i gestori degli hotel e dei locali parlano inglese, per cui consiglio vivamente di rivolgersi a ragazzi giovani per chiedere eventuali informazioni.

    Un’altra possibilità potrebbe essere soggiornare a Karadut, villaggio che offre alcune scelte di alloggio e più vicino al sito di Nemrut. Da Kahta sono 35 chilometri all’ingresso del sito, poi , lasciato il veicolo si procede  a piedi per una scalinata che poi diventa un sentiero acciottolato ma facilmente percorribile. Il tragitto a piedi dura circa 25 minuti. Bisogna inoltre considerare che il sito di trova a 2150 metri per cui l’escursione termica è notevole se si giunge all’alba partendo da valle durante la stagione calda.

    Arrivati a destinazione lo spettacolo che si apre di fronte a voi è di una inenarrabile bellezza. Le prime luci dell’alba che illuminano le vaste terre dell’Eufrate con la sua roccia giallastra dalle sfumature rossastre donano al sito archeologico un fascino e una magia che rendono il luogo unico non solo per la sua bellezza naturale ma soprattutto per l’affascinante storia di questo re , la cui vita e vicende restano orami sepolte sotto le rocce del cumulo che lui stesso fece costruire e dove si dice che contenga oltre alla sua tomba un tesoro sconosciuto.

  • Penang: a pearl in the Melaka Bay

    As you approach the bridge which gets over the sea separating the mainland from the Island of Penang you are presently thrown into a new dimension, above all if coming from Cameron Highlands and Ipoh. May be because it is far away from the coastline , Penang  Island appears as a distinguishable location out on the Melaka Bay. I would really have visited Melaka town but, as it often happens during journeys, you can easily miss some interesting places, that is the way!

    Getting inside Georgetown I was amazed by the gorgeous streets characterized by nineteenth century British colonial facades whose ground floors had then been occupied by Chinese homes or shops. The ground floor doors are so much precious with beautiful golden  Chinese decorations and on top of them, painted Chinese characters. The history of Georgetown is very interesting and I would suggest to pay a visit to the Perenkan House to see how the two cultures have been integrating along time.  It is so strange seeing a fine bone china Victorian tea service on a Chinese dining table  or some English suitcases on top of wardrobes, which, by the way, are full of malay batik sarong!

  • Kuala Lumpur: a peculiar skyline on a mixture of cultural heritage

    Arriving  at Kuala Lumpur airport it  immediately gives you the idea to be in a super technological Asian city, an avant-garde spot much over the Western infrastructure standards. A quick train connects the airport with the city and I actually suggest to take this transport to get to the centre. An alternative could be the taxi , much better if your hotel  is far away from KL central station where arriving by train you also have to get another transport. Traffic is quite cahotic but the net of roads is efficient and of high level.  

    As for cultural spots I could mention Merdeka Square as a mixture of different cultural  roots such as Indian, English and of course Muslim! It is incredibile seeing so many buildings surrounding the square and just thinking ‘ what kind of historical past does this place have?’ Curious because looking at the Royal Palace you seem to be jutted into a kind of Muslim- British style architecture with a sort of Buckingham  Palace gates and just in front of a magnificent common green area resembling  a London Common Park on the background of British timber- framed facades terraces. So peculiar!

    Butik Bintang area is definitely the best  to find accommodation  as it has a good selection of hotels of different category as well as many restaurants and coffee-shops. I was impressingly fascinated by the Petronas Towers area. All around here there are so many modern steel and glass buildings, where the tropical vegetation is not absent but it pops up in between concrete, glass and steel like as the present witness  of a past abused wildlife.  Actually,  you can lose in that proliferance of sophisticated constructions!  I will suggest you to take care not to visit the Petronas on Monday as it is the week closing day. We went there on Monday but I had to accept the idea to come back another day if I had spent longer in KL.

  • TBILISI, A CROSSROADS OF CULTURES ON THE SILK ROAD

    My journey in the Caucasian region starts in Tbilisi, fascintimg and gorgeous city whose history runs back to the 8th century BC when the Greek established here the Colchid reign. Arriving at  Tbilisi Airport in the middle of the night, I was so exhausted and overwhelmed with tireness that I deciced to stretch out my legs on an armchair in the departure  hall and take a relax before going to the city centre. At six am I ended up getting a taxi to the town straight to the hotel and fell down asleep in a very short time.
    It’s 11 am and it is time to get out and start exploiring the city. I should start by the area immediately  around the hotel but the extreme warmth and the heavy boiling air prevents me from adenturing beyond the closing hotel area, even because I really needed some breakfast first.
    In front of my hotel there was the metro station and past it the roads were busy with traffic and no cafè point was recognisable.
    Very fed up, at last I managed to buy my breakfast and took a relax sipping my coffee and eating some yogurt.
    I started my city exploration around 1pm from Ravasteli Avenue, a lively area with many historic buildings and booksellers stalls.

    National Ballet in Ravasteli Avenue

    Then I moved to liberty square and to the cablecar point to  go up to Narikala fortress, from where I had a gorgeous view of the city and this gives you the idea of its dimension and envorinment. From the cablecar you can have a wonderful view above the river and the Peace bridge with the Daughter of Georgia statue dominating from above.


    A refregerating descend gets you to the old town where the different areas were once part of the arriving streets along the silk road. Here you can contemplate the surprising old wooden buildings, some restored, some not yet, with their lovely old wooden balconies. There are also the old baths were in the 5th century the thermal spring was discovered and this gave the name to Tbilisi, which means ‘hot place’.
    The external facade of the baths is decorated with beautiful Blue and green tiles which certainly gives you the impression to be in one of the fascinatimg Asian tracks on the extraordinary Silk Road.

    Old baths in Tbilisi

    The real emotion to travel Easthern is, without any doubt, the great sensation to see the cultures changing, modifying and integrating themselves in a perfect symmetry, something you can definitely experience travelling by land and surely not by plane.
    My impression on this wonderful region, the Caucasus, both Georgia and Armenia, and it should be perceived even in Azerbaijan, place I have not visited yet, is dealing with the great sensation to be travelling in an in-between land, rejoining West and East, a kind of bridge of ancient and profound cultures whose purity is trying to be destroyed and deprived by the the Western.

    Wooden balconies in old town, Tbilisi




  • Angkor Temples

    Siem Reap
    Just the approaching of the Angkor Temples area by tuk tuk was an amazing experience. The hot could be felt less intense by means of the pleasant air which was refreshing your skin while travelling on board of this funny transport.
    Whenever the driver came to the entrance of a temple and you were gently left down to pay your visit to the temple, the boiling air assaulted you but you were immediately paid back thanks to the scenographic scenery it set out in front of you.
    Sometimes the temple was higher from the main road and the first thing which stroke you was the steepy ancient staircase that you needed to climb on to reach the summit of these religious sites of the Khmer civilization which dates back to the eleventh century.
    And obviously the view from up there was fantastic! Getting around there you could easily imagine striking stories from the past, slow rhythms of life spent through the immersion in a spiritual existence and this gives you a sensation of great balance and knowledge of the soul.

    Angkor Tom temple, Siem Reap

    Angkor Tom temple, one of the most inspiring because of its hugeness and the red stone it was built, made me remember the old Maya’s temples.

    Banteay Srei, the only temple built by a woman is absolutely worth mentioning, even though to reach it you need to travel quite a long way from Angkor Wat by tuk tuk or you can also rent a scooter. This beautiful temple composed by small shrines almost at the grand floor level gets you into a tiness and a mutual atmosphere were gentless and sacrality predominate. Some small temples are introduced by little animal statues situated at some column basements. They are mostly monkeys but you can spot other symbolical religious animals linked to the past Khmer history.

    Banteay Srei Temple, Angkor

    Not to mention the surprising Ta Prohm were the power of nature has left innumerabile traces of its sublime hugeness. I am referring to the tall trees whose roots completelety wrap up the walls of the buildings like a shawl to protect them like a magic spell. Considering the fact this is the most famous and largely visited among the whole site area, it could seem a  trivial attempt trying to talk about it. I can just describe you my reaction towards the amazing scenery of the roots wrapping the sacrality of what once represented a religious place attended by monks . It seems almost a sacrilege imposed by nature which has set up here its corrosive journey towards eternity so as to inorporate the work of men into its sublime essence.

    A bas-relief female divinity in Ta Prom Temple, Angkor
    Ta Prom, the impressing tree roots embracing the wall temple
  • Battambang, Cambodia

    Just as I was approaching the coach station in Battambang coming from Siem Reap, I could notice a crowd of local people , who, as it usually happens, are welcoming the new arrivals in the town.
    Mr Soon, a very friendly man , spotted me from the pavement before getting down. I was sure he would have bothered me with the usual offerings of tours or some other kind of purchasing we travellers are doomed to deal about. I could say, yes the place seemed to fascinate me perhaps more than the arrival in Siem Reap, in the sense I found the town more authentic in its French colonial heritage. 
    I immediately understood it would have been worth while spending some days there.
    A beautiful location, east from Siem Reap towards the Thailand border, vivacious but not as cahotic and touristic as Siem Reap. The town is crossed by a river coming from Siem Reap and going on to Kampong Chnang through the Tonle Sap Lake.

    Our friend revealed to be a very informed and discrete guide and, as I went on his tuc tuc, we planned a tour for the following morning to the oldest Khmer houses just on the suburbs of the town.
    The speech went naturally to the past civil war which took place thirty years ago and whose signs have been dramatic to these people.

    The oldest Khmer house, of one hundred years, was shown us, me and my daughter, from its friendly owner. He went through the terribile story of his family who had been living there for one hundred years. The house had been an outpost during the war between Vietnam and Thailand as Cambodia has always been a land imprisoned between these two countries. The rooms and corridors revealed the past history of his grandmother, a Cambodian woman who was forced to marry a Thai army captain in order to save her family.

  • Georgetown: Perenkan House

    The history of Georgetown is so much fascinating and I would suggest to pay a visit to the Perenkan House to see how the Chinese and the British culture have been integrating along time.  It is so strange seeing a fine bone China Victorian tea service on a Chinese dining table  or English suitcases on top of wardrobes, which, by the way, are full of malay batik sarong!

    The history of the Perenkan family is impressive as you hear that Chinese people migrating to Malaysia in the second half of the nineteenth century , they merged with Malay folk and they settled down a new race, the Perenkan.

    Fine bone China English service on a dining room table in the Perenkan House

    Another impressive location is kek Lok Si temple . I went there by city bus from the central bus station. It is easy to reach it. I personally was so excited to look at its style, which combined Thai, Burmese and Chinese shape, the biggest Buddhist temple in Malaysia. Obviously it is possible to see here some English culture too. I am referring to its beautiful garden area surrounding the tall pagoda and all the temple . English flowers beds are joining Malay flowers as well as water-lilies. If you do not look at the temple you could easily imagine to be in an English garden somewhere in England. It is absolutely so distant to the temples I saw in China, whose garden areas reflected Chinese culture only.

    Kek Lok Si Temple: British garden style around a Malay temple
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