La scelta di trascorrere due settimane a Creta l’abbiamo presa in periodo covid, quando l’incertezza di una nuova chiusura totale era sempre dietro l’angolo ma la voglia di viaggiare era diventata un bisogno.
Era ormai luglio e non rimaneva più molto tempo per trovare una soluzione economica per un viaggio estivo. L’obiettivo era quello di trovare un compromesso tra una vacanza in piena libertà e lo “stay safe”, evitando la folla del turismo di agosto. Creta, la più grande delle isole greche è la meta ideale per chi, come noi, ama le vacanze on the road ed è il giusto mix tra mare da favola e natura incontaminata da intervallare a momenti culturali. Inoltre, grazie alle sue dimensioni e alla varietà di cose da fare e posti da vedere, ci ha permesso di goderci due settimane da sogno senza stare troppo a preoccuparci.
Our expectations were fully met!
- Itinerary in a nutshell
- Day 1: Livadi Beach, Arkadi Monastery and Rethymno
- Giorno 2: Fortezza di Rethymno e Chania
- Giorno 3: Seitan Limania e Kalathas Beach
- Day 4: Balos and Falasarna
- Giorno 5: Elafonissi e Omalos
- Giorno 6: Gole di Samaria
- Giorno 7: Chora Sfakion e Skinaria beach
- Giorno 8: Glyka Nera e Loutro
- Giorno 9: Ammoùdi Beaches
- Giorno 10: Agiofarago, Matala e Agios Nikolaos
- Giorno 11: Psychro e Palazzo di Cnosso
- Day 12: Chrysi Island and Ierapetra
- Giorno 13: Richtis Gorge e Spiaggia di Vai
- Giorno 14: Isola di Spinalonga e Heraklion
- Giorno 15: Partenza
Itinerary in a nutshell
Our journey lasted 15 days.
Driving for 1638 km we crossed all four prefectures of Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Lassithi sleeping in Rethymno, Chania, Omalos, Chora Sfakion, Agios Nikolaos and Heraklion.
Tips for Trips: le strade di Creta – soprattutto nella parte sud – sono spesso piccole e piene di curve, senza parapetto e sterrate. Attraversano montagne e cadono a picco sul mare, nei paesini di montagna sono così strette che a mala pena ci passa una macchina. Due località che sembrano vicine sulla mappa non necessariamente sono collegate da una strada asfaltata e spesso i navigatori, non trovando limiti di velocità, indicano la metà del tempo di percorrenza realmente necessario.
We enjoyed the view of the most beautiful beaches – Seitan Limania, Balos, Falasarna, Elafonissi, Skinaria, Glika Nera, Ammoùdi Beaches, Agiofarago, Vai beach – followed natural and wild paths – Samaria Gorge, Ritchis Gorge, Agiofarago Canyon – and visited Chrysi Island.
Despite the particular period - and wanting to avoid crowded places as much as possible - we wanted to dedicate a few days to the major sites of interest - Arkadi Monastery, Rethymno fortress, Psycrho, Spinalonga Island and Knossos Palace.
If you are curious to find out more, here are the stages of our journey day by day.
Day 1: Livadi Beach, Arkadi Monastery and Rethymno
We land at Heraklion airport at 11.55am. Having taken our suitcases we go to collect the car and move towards Rethymno. On the way we make our first stop at Livadi Beach where we enjoy a good Greek lunch by the sea and get to know Cretan Raki.
In the afternoon we visit Arkadi Monastery, famous for being the symbol of the Cretan resistance against the Ottomans. In 1866, almost 1000 Greeks took refuge in the monastery. After three days of siege, in order not to surrender to the Ottomans, they decided to sacrifice themselves by exploding the barrels of gunpowder, causing serious losses to the enemies. The monastery, now restored - with the exception of the powder magazine - is an oasis of peace in the mountains.
Hours: Open every day. April – May/September – October: from 9am to 7pm. June – August: from 9am to 8pm.
In the evening, after having settled in the hotel, we take a first tour of Rethymno with its pretty marina and the old town in which to enjoy dinner and a walk through the alleys full of life until late in the evening.
Day 2: Fortress of Rethymno and Chania
We dedicate ourselves to visiting the Rethymno Fortress. Fu costruita nel 1573-1580 dal comandante veneziano Alvico Lanto e progettato da un ingegnere, Pallavicini. Si trova sul sito di una fortezza medievale che in precedenza era stato il luogo dove sorgeva l’antica acropoli di Rethymno. È circondata da quattro bastioni e da forti mura, la sua presenza domina la città. All’interno c’erano caserme, magazzini, edifici pubblici e un ospedale militare. Oggi rimangono i resti della moschea Imbraem Chan, una chiesa veneziana, alcuni magazzini e le cisterne.
Hours: Open every day. April – October: from 8am to 8pm. November – March: from 10am to 5pm.
Once the visit is over we go down the alleys of the centre, full of flowers and bright colours. We stop for a good lunch in one of the many taverns that are filled with tourists.
In the afternoon we move to Chania. The historic center is a labyrinth of alleys which wind in all directions in which to walk between mosques and Orthodox churches to converge on the characteristic Venetian port. In addition to the port you can admire the Lighthouse, the symbol of the city. This imposing tower is also called the "Egyptian lighthouse" due to its reconstruction by the Egyptians in the nineteenth century. Of great importance is the Firkas Fortress, dove c’è il Museo Marittimo e un piccolo teatro all’aperto. Il 1º dicembre del 1913 venne issata la bandiera greca sulla fortezza, a testimonianza dell’indipendenza di Creta conquistata dopo oltre 260 anni di dominio turco. Infine affacciata sulla darsena occidentale, si trova la più antica moschea di Creta: the Kioutsouk Hasan Mosque. Edificata dai Turchi nel 1645, l’edificio fu chiuso al culto dopo la riunione di Creta alla Grecia. In seguito fu utilizzata come sede di diversi uffici amministrativi e, recentemente restaurata e attualmente adibita a spazio espositivo per eventi, fiere e mostre.
Day 3: Seitan Limania and Kalathas Beach
Early in the morning we move towards the beach Seitan Limania (“Porto di Satana”), nella penisola di Akrotiri. L’acqua di un turchese incredibile si fa strada attraverso una crepa tra le rocce creando una insenatura naturale che lascia senza fiato. Con l’auto si arriva fino al parcheggio gratuito, dopo una strada asfaltata con quattro tornanti. Da lì per arrivare alla spiaggia bisogna “scalare” la parete rocciosa che racchiude la valle, è consigliato avere scarpe comode perché il sentiero è in forte pendenza e piuttosto dissestato. Basta fare un po’ di attenzione e percorrerla con calma, anche Paolo c’è riuscito.
Tips for Trips: ci sono 2 sentieri per arrivare alla spiaggia. Noi abbiamo scelto quello di destra perché anche se un po’ più lungo pare fosse meno ripido.
After about 20 minutes of walking we arrive at the beach and all the efforts are forgotten. What appears before us is a spectacle of nature and we are enchanted. However, the beach is small and super crowded in the late morning so we only stop for a few hours and move on before lunch.
We then move on to Kalathas Beach where we have lunch overlooking the sea. In the afternoon we pitch our tent in one of the most secluded coves and relax until sunset.
Day 4: Balos and Falasarna
Wake up early and set off in the direction Balos, the best known beach in Crete and also one of the most beautiful: the sand is light with pink shades due to the shells, the water is transparent and with many different shades due to the shape of the bay which divides the sea into small pools. We decide to arrive early to avoid the crowds of tourists arriving on organized excursion ships. Early in the morning, between 9.00 and 10.00, even in high season, the beach is not very crowded.
Tips for Trips: The road to get to Balos is unpaved and exposed in some sections, with many more or less deep potholes, but it is also very wide, which can be done calmly with any car. At the entrance of the dirt road you will have to pay an entrance fee per person, and after less than 10 km you will arrive at the parking lot. From here you then follow a path and a natural staircase which will take you to the beach in about 20 minutes.
In the afternoon we move to Falasarna. After passing the first part of the equipped and crowded beach, you will find quieter bays where you can enjoy a relaxing afternoon: we set up our tent and wait for the evening to have dinner in a little place at the top of the hill overlooking the bay, one of the most beautiful sunsets in Crete.
On the way back to Chania we come across the Church of Ioannis Prodromos, a rock church carved into the rock near the port of Kissamos. The church is located right on the side of the road and is well lit and visible as you pass by.
Day 5: Elafonissi and Omalos
We leave the room in Chania to head to Elafonissi: the sand has characteristic pink shades due to small shell fragments brought ashore by the sea. Right in front of the beach is the small island of Elafonissi which, during low tide periods is connected via a narrow strip of sand, while in others it is a real island that can be reached by walking through the knee-deep sea. We set up the tent and stop on the island for the day. At the end of the island there is a promontory where there is a lighthouse and the small chapel of Agia Irini and once you reach the top you have a beautiful view of the entire coast.
In the late afternoon we get in the car and head towards Omalos, the road is long and winding but the many goats perched on the road keep us company.
Day 6: Samaria Gorge
Wake up very early, today the most awaited excursion of the trip awaits us, we will take it the Samaria Gorges all’interno del Parco Nazionale. Il percorso totale lungo 16 km – 13 Km all’interno del parco e 3 Km per raggiungere il porto – parte dai 1250 metri di altezza di Omalos fino alla spiaggia di Agia Roumeli, nella costa sud dell’isola. Il percorso è di media difficoltà e il tempo di percorrenza varia dalle 4 alle 6 ore attraverso paesaggi straordinari, si cammina prima attraverso un bosco rigoglioso fino ad arrivare alla gola: alte pareti di roccia che si stringono fino alle cosiddette “Iron Doors“, the most famous point of the path just 3 meters wide.
Hours: Open every day. May - October: from 7.30am to 4pm.
The park has two entrances, one upstream from the town of Omalos and one downstream from Agia Roumeli. Our excursion starts from Omalos so as to follow the downhill path: the difference in altitude is concentrated in the first half of the route, in which the path quickly descends to the river bed, while the second part is flat and crosses the gorge.
Tips for Trips: All’interno del parco sono presenti diverse aree di sosta con panchine, toilette e fontane di acqua potabile, utilissimo portare una borraccia da riempire – circa una ventina di volte almeno – lungo il percorso. Non c’è nessun punto di ristoro – se non all’uscita del percorso a valle – portate con voi degli spuntini oppure attendete di arrivare ad Agia Roumeli dove sono presenti molte taverne.
Arrived at Agia Roumeli we have lunch in a tavern on the port and wait for the 5.30pm ferry in the direction Sougia – there are no roads that connect Agia Roumeli to the other towns on the south coast, so from here you have to take the ferry towards Sougia/Paleochora or Chora Sfakion. The journey to Sougia takes about an hour and as soon as we arrive we hop on the first bus to Chania which stops in Omalos and takes us back to the entrance of the Park.
Day 7: Chora Sfakion and Skinaria beach
We leave Omalos and go south, for the next three nights we will stay in Chora Sfakion small village with a family atmosphere that develops around the old tourist port, full of taverns open until late.
La zona di Sfakia è una delle meno accessibili perché circondata da alte montagna – le strade sono piccole e ripide, a tratti dissestate – e la gente del posto, famosa per la forza e resistenza agli invasori ha ancora la passione per le armi. Non fatevi intimidire dai fori di proiettile su ogni superficie – cartelli stradali, macchine abbandonate o case disabitate – la gente del posto è ospitale come nel resto dell’isola.
After leaving our bags in the room we take a walk around the center and have lunch in an all-blue tavern overlooking the sea. We then resume the journey and travel along the stretch of coast, between Frangokastello, with the Venetian fortress directly on the sea until you reach the beach of Skinaria Beach.
Si tratta di una piccola spiaggia racchiusa in una baia naturale tra due formazioni rocciose. Dotata di acque turchesi cristalline, ha una soffice sabbia grigio-beige e ciottoli sottili. L’area circostante è caratterizzata da una vegetazione lussureggiante che crea un’atmosfera da paesaggio tropicale. Ciò che contraddistingua Skinaria Beach sono le sue acque cristalline e i numerosi pesci che l’hanno resa popolare e frequentata da subacquei professionisti. È anche nota per l’atmosfera tranquilla e serena. La spiaggia infatti è poco attrezzata, non ci sono grandi strutture nella zona. La spiaggia è accessibile in auto ma guidare fino alla spiaggia è un po’ una sfida a causa della strada stretta e dissestata ma il posto ripaga dello sforzo.
Day 8: Glyka Nera and Loutro
We leave early in the morning to reach the port of Chora Sfakion, where we take a taxi boat that takes us to “Sweetwater beach” in 10 minutes Black Glyka, a bay so called due to the presence of fresh water that flows in small springs directly onto the beach. The cove is very suggestive, surrounded by high rock walls and the crystal clear sea. Despite the competition, in my opinion the most beautiful beach in Crete.
Before lunch we move, sip a beer in the small tavern on stilts, waiting for the second taxi boat. After another 10 minute boat ride we arrive at Loutro, a quiet fishing village accessible only by sea or on foot. The amphitheater bay is made up of a seafront of white buildings, blue windows and flowering bougainvillea.
We have lunch in a tavern on the seafront and spend the afternoon walking through the streets of the town alternating with a few swims in the cool waters of the beach at the end of the town. In the late afternoon we return to Chora Sfakion by taxi boat.
Day 9: Ammoudi Beaches
We dedicate the day to the coves east of Plakias in complete relaxation: a group of wonderful little beaches called Ammoudi Beaches. The beach of Ammoudi – attrezzata e vivace – quella di Ammoudaki – frequentata prevalentemente da naturisti – Damn you – ampia, attrezzata e con diverse taverne sul mare – e Kleidisi – small cove nestled between the rocks.
Day 10: Agiofarago, Matala and Agios Nikolaos
The alarm goes off very early, the longest journey awaits us, we cross the island from west to east for almost 250 km until we reach Agios Nikolaos which will host us for the next four nights.
Let's stop at Agiophagus, una spiaggia di ciottoli che si apre alla fine di un canyon, circondata da scogliere ricche di grotte usate un tempo come santuari o eremi, il nome significa infatti “Gola dei Santi”.
Tips for Trips: Per raggiungere la spiaggia bisogna, inizialmente, percorrere una strada sterrata, piccola e dissestata ma percorribile con tutti i tipi di auto – fino ad un grande parcheggio. Lì si trova un piccolo chioschetto che offre bibite fresche e qualcosa da mangiare prima di avventurarsi al percorso di circa 1km che porta alla spiaggia, non attrezzata e senza punti di ristoro.
Il percorso lungo la gola è molto facile, si districa per 40 minuti tra una natura meravigliosa ma è per lo più al sole. Lungo il percorso si trova la cappella di Agios Antonios con la sua campanella – suonarla pare che porti fortuna – e il pozzo, unica fonte d’acqua per gli eremiti. Proseguendo verso il mare, sulla sinistra si trova l’entrata della grotta di Goumenóspilios composta da una grotta più piccola all’ingresso e una seconda più grande – alta 9 metri e larga 7 – dove visse sant’Antonio. Proseguendo si arriva alla spiaggia poco frequentata, protetta dai venti e con acque calme e di un blu intenso. Nella parte occidentale della cala, dove la costa finisce a strapiombo in fondo al mare, c’è un piccolo arco roccioso sul mare sotto il quale nuotare.
We visit Matala, the famous hippie city. In the 1960s hippies from all over the world began to live in natural caves dug into the cliff, forming communities that also attracted famous people such as Bob Dylan and Janis Joplin. Joni Mitchell even wrote a song dedicated to this period. Through a path on the rocks, over the hill in half an hour you reach the wilderness Red Beach.
On the way north we come across a characteristic church carved into the rock, we cross the Kotsifou Canyon, a suggestive and deep gash between high mountains.
In the evening we get lost among the lights of Agios Nicolaos, a colorful mix of bars, taverns, cafes and shops. Its centre, especially beautiful at sunset or in the evening, opens around the famous Voulismeni lake which connects directly to the sea thanks to a narrow canal.
Day 11: Psychro and Palace of Knossos
Due to the uncertain weather and the risk of rain we anticipate the steps we had to do on the last day before moving to Heraklion.
Let's visit theLasithi Plateau, a vast plain of cultivated fields where some of the many windmills built at the time of the Venetian occupation remain. We get to Psychro, the main gateway to the Dikteon Cave. According to legend, Rhea hid in this cave to give birth to Zeus, far from the clutches of her father Cronos. To access the cave you have to walk for 800 meters along a steep but shaded uphill rocky path or a paved and sunny road that starts from the car park.
Hours: Open every day. April – October: from 8am to 8pm. November – October: from 8am to 3pm.
In the afternoon we visit the archaeological site of Knossos which stands on the heights of Kefala, 5 km from the center of Heraklion. Knossos is the largest of the Minoan palaces and in addition to being religious in nature, it was the political and economic center of the Minoan maritime empire. The living space included an area of approximately 20,000 m² with the accommodation of the king, the queen and the administrative officials, rooms for worship and receptions: 1300 rooms distributed over 5 floors with a very intricate plan where it is estimated that approximately 12,000 people, whose central area was made up of a dirt courtyard where the performances of gymnasts who challenged death by pirouetting on the bulls, sacred animals for the Cretans, took place, as evidenced by the numerous frescoes found in the palace.
The site, although fascinating, appears a little artificial and the guided tour is confusing. Despite its fame it left us disappointed.
Hours: Open every day. April – September: from 8am to 8pm. October: from 8am to 7pm. November – March: from 8am to 3pm.
Di ritorno ci fermiamo all’Agios Giorgios Monastery, a Byzantine monastery where peace and silence reign. The foundation of the monastery is relatively recent and dates back to the 20th century. His housing complex, spread over two surfaces, belongs to the same era. At its eastern end is the old church of Agios Georgios, while on the western side more recent buildings have been erected and two newly built churches dedicated respectively to Theophany and the Resurrection.
Day 12: Chrysi Island and Ierapetra
In the morning we reach Ierapetra and embark for theIsland of Chrissi 8 km from the coast of Crete. In about an hour, the boat takes us to the island, famous for its tropical waters and its paradisiacal beaches where the roots of cedar trees intertwine on the pink sand. The island is completely uninhabited although there is a tavern where you can eat and a kiosk with services. The boats dock at the pier on the south coast of the island. On the opposite side of the island is located Vlychadia: red, gray and black pebbles reveal Chrissi's volcanic origin. Further on, at the western end of the island is located Kentra, a beach that is always deserted because it is too far from the dock. To the west there is Hatzivolakas, bordered by huge cedar trees. The western end where the sand thickens and takes on a darker color is called Avlaki. On the north coast Belegrina – golden beach – it is the most beautiful and popular beach in Chrissi. The water is spectacular, and is colored with shades of bright blue, emerald green and cobalt blue. The beach is entirely covered with shells of all sizes and in the easternmost part you can find fossils that are between 350,000 and 70,000 years old, dating back to when the island was still immersed in the sea. It is equipped with umbrellas and a small, decidedly expensive beach bar.
Day 13: Richtis Gorge and Vai Beach
We explore the east coast of the island starting with a trek to reach the wild Richtis Gorge: the route runs from the hinterland to the sea, and in this case starting from the village of Exo Mouliana it would require at least 2 hours of walking. We decide to drive up to Lachana Bridge and continue with the path that crosses dense, almost tropical vegetation until you reach the beautiful waterfall that characterizes the gorge. The path to get to the waterfall is not very simple and at times you have to climb rocks and hang from trees to cross the river but the feeling of wandering through wild nature is priceless. Once you arrive at the waterfall you can take a refreshing bath in the freezing water before continuing to the sea or going back towards the bridge. Furthermore, along the path there are several abandoned but very characteristic stone mills.
Trips for Trips: to get to the Lachana Bridge, follow the signs for the longest road that runs along the state road outside the village. The navigator suggests a road that cuts through the town but ends up on a road so small and bumpy that you have to leave the car in the countryside and continue on foot, adding a 15-minute walk to the route.
In the afternoon we move to the famous one Go, considerata una delle spiagge più belle e pittoresche di Creta poiché circondata dalla più grande foresta di palme d’Europa, che cresce naturalmente fino alla spiaggia. Con circa 6000 alberi, questa meraviglia naturale aumenta notevolmente il fascino della spiaggia di sabbia donandole un fascino esotico e offrendo una bella zona per passeggiare all’ombra. Inoltre a fianco del ristorante parte una scalinata che porta ad un sentiero sulla collina dal quale si può ammirare tutta la costa.
Day 14: Spinalonga Island and Heraklion
We leave the room early in the morning and head towards the Island of Spinalonga, a small fortified island that was once a leper colony. To reach it you have to take the boat but the crossing takes a few minutes. Once disembarked you find yourself in front of the ancient access gates to the island. From here people accessed examination rooms where the medical staff decided in which sector of the island they would live. In the period of maximum population, the leper colony had around 400 inhabitants. Each of them could maintain their profession and so Spinalonga had commercial activities and services. The restoration of Spinalonga itself took place by their hand. Walking around the island we move away from the small village, go up the streets and go around the island. The walk along the sea is very suggestive. Climbing towards the top of the mountain you reach a flat area surrounded by ruined walls. From here you can enjoy a wonderful view.
In the afternoon we move to Heraklion, last stop of our journey. We take a tour of the center and end the evening by having dinner atAvli, a small restaurant a little hidden inside a courtyard. The place is family run, the girl came to sit at the table to tell us about the menu. His mother is in the kitchen, his father takes care of the dining room. The dishes are plentiful, with typical and tasty flavours.
Day 15: Departure
Let's take another tour of Heraklion, visit the Castle by the Sea, a majestic building that overlooks the port and the nearby Arsenal at the end of a perfect holiday in a place that enchanted us.