CHESTERLAND, Ohio -- Inside the non-descript, cream-colored ranch with brown shutters, near Chesterland’s main intersection, hides one of the area’s top fine dining establishments, Coppia. The dining room is simple, but the kitchen is magic. At least the chefs are.
With their first anniversary as restaurant owners approaching on January 20, 2023, Chefs Talia Trovato and Hedy Pastran feel they have eased diners into their culinary vision. Now, they want guests to come along for a fine dining gastronomic adventure.
When they took over the former Sapore restaurant space –operated by Loretta Paganini -- and reimagined it in early 2021, the nation was starting to come out of the pandemic. To entice diners, the chefs offered a transitional menu with familiar, yet elevated comfort foods. With each new seasonal menu, they push closer to their creative goals. For them that means introducing new flavors. For guests it means expanding their palates.
Chefs Trovato and Pastran have the gift of curiosity. Not only do they love (and live) food, but they are also always striving to learn as much as they can about new ingredients and techniques. They bring what they learn to their guests.
“We’ve been walking into the water slowly, now we’re ready to put it all on the table,” says Pastran, laughing at her own pun. “We like to rework the traditional with a little surprise and mystery.” Said like the Disney chef she was. In fact, both chefs formerly worked for Disney fine dining establishments.
Chefs Talia Trovato and Hedy Pastran, owners of Coppia restaurant in Chesterland. (Photo submitted)
While the menu proteins remain the same throughout the year, the presentation changes with the seasons. The new menu emphasizes the decadence of fine dining and pushes unconventional flavors. It’s built on familiar proteins with distinct preparation and presentation.
Details -- like melon microgreens with a pork chop, for example -- matter. In fact, for that reason the women run a total scratch kitchen. When you get smoked bacon-tomato-onion jam with a seven-ounce filet, you know they made it from fresh ingredients a few steps away from your table.
The chefs even give serious thought to the names of each dish. “We like to tell a story through the food that leaves the kitchen,” says Pastran.
Fall 2022′s “Falling Leaves” appetizer was pan-seared scallops, spiced carrot purée, purple potatoes and pearl onions. For winter the scallops become an “Unlikely Pairing” which refers to the surprising pairing of scallops and vanilla beurre blanc. The dish includes caramelized pears, pistachio gremolata and parsnip puree.
The chefs at Coppia present an "Unlikely Pairing" scallop dish on their winter menu. (Photo by Coppia)
Meanwhile, the Fall 2022 menu offered “Highland Masala,” a Scottish-Indian take on lamb with curried garbanzo beans and naan. For winter 2023, the lamb is reimagined as “Center of the Earth” and given African influences. The chefs offer a roasted lamb rack with Ethiopian berbere spiced red lentils and sauteed collard greens.
“This is just the beginning. “Menus are always changing as we’re constantly growing as chefs and getting to know new ingredients,” says Trovato. “We love food. We talk about food all day long. We are diligent in studying flavor profiles.”
While the wait staff provides service, Trovato and Pastran are in control of the food. They’re the only chefs in the small kitchen and Trovato is also the bartender. They prefer it that way.
“One of the advantages of having a restaurant this size is we can handle the flow of everything,” says Pastran. “We want you to experience as we designed it. The texture, temperature, flavors. Small details matter.”
The winter menu starts New Year’s Eve, but the dining room is sold out. The restaurant will have a chef’s table in January and Valentine’s Day dinner on the February 14. Details will become available on the website in January and in the restaurant’s newsletter.
With the exception of special events, Coppia is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday. It is at 8623 Mayfield Road, Chesterland, (440) 688-4480.
Paris Wolfe is a life and culture reporter for Cleveland.com. She has a special interest in food and dining. You can reach her with restaurant and food news and story ideas at pwolfe@cleveland.com. Here’s a directory of her latest posts. Follow her on Instagram @pariswolfe.