03-04-2019
Catia and Mauro Uliassi on the stage of Identità Milano 2019 (all the photos are from Brambilla-Serrani)
The audience was murmuring, there was an atmosphere of suspense charged with electricity, while waiting for the two siblings from Senigallia, who have just reached the top of the firmament of triumphant chefs. And when the moment came, the embrace between Catia and Mauro Uliassi melted the coldest hearts – the people for whom Identità Milano is a dive into a long selfie, with or without stick, a showing-off of gourmet muscles, a presumptuous journey in the beau monde of master chefs. In that grip of affection between chef-brother and dining-room-sister, every tension melted, on and below the stage, at least for a while. For sure Catia’s voice was broken, from the first to the last word. While Mauro, so as to pretend he was ok, held his lectio magistralis at the super speed of someone who’s fighting with emotions that are impossible to tame.
They both faced this new Oscars-night with their own strategy, and it’s understandable: the audience crowding the auditorium of Identità would make even Roberto Bolle’s knees tremble. She relied on the few lines she wrote on a piece of paper crumbled in her hands: the crowning of 29 years of work, spent for three quarters of each day blending private and professional life; dining room and kitchen in unison; the display of affection from our friends; a proof of love that truly touched us; we’re celebrating the result today. And then the escape to the corner further away from the spotlight.
Catia Uliassi, to the right, and hostess Lisa Casali
Mauro Uliassi
Panbollito di agnello con agnello fuori di testa
The same applies to the Anguilla affumicata agli agrumi e conditella. The idea is the same as per the lamb, offering an ingredient that has disappeared, to recuperate which Mauro Uliassi drew from the memories of Mariagrazia Soncini, chef at La Capanna di Eraclio in the valleys of Comacchio. «She told me all she knew. I’m very grateful». Or Ossobuco alla marinara, starting from the intuition that «the collagen of the ossobuco can be similar to that of cod tripe». Strong ideas, wiping out commonplaces and a jump into memories polished for the future.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
by
A journalist by profession, curious by vocation, she applies her attitude to investigative reports and food features. She's author for Repubblica, Gambero Rosso, Dispensa