Dr. Dirt: Pyracantha don't grow well in Indiana

Dear Dr. Dirt: On a recent trip, we saw this beautiful bush that looked like a cascading waterfall of orange berries. If it will grow here in Indiana we certainly would like to add it to our landscape. — Ellen, Indianapolis

Dear Reader: The shrub in question is probably the pyracantha, Pyracantha coccinea, which is hardy in zones 6-9. Some 50 years ago, it was love at first sight when I first observed a pyracantha, and I soon added it to a trellis against the chimney. It did not enjoy the winters, and after a few years it was history. However, for several years the sharp thorns remained in the ground, and working in the area you had to be very careful. Pyracantha is an evergreen noted for its orange fruit, which remains throughout the winter. Plants will grow to a height and spread of more than 12 feet. Thus pruning wearing leather gloves for thorn protection is necessary to maintain a nice dense form. Indiana's largest wholesale nursery does not grow pyracantha, which is a good indication that the plant has lost its popularity. It is beautiful, but not hardy for most of Indiana.

Dear Dr. Dirt: Toadstools and mushrooms have been popping up in our yard all summer and well into the fall. Our latest crop has been identified as stinkhorns, and they have a terrible odor. It is so bad I can't stand to dig them! — Mary, Indianapolis  

Dear Reader: Stinkhorns are well-named. Most fungi have a faint odor, but this one tops the list. When they first break through the mulch or soil, they look somewhat like an egg. The "egg" opens at the top, and a horn like growth emerges. As it matures, it develops a very bad smell, which attracts flies. It is the flies that spread the spores of this fungus. Toadstools and mushrooms just pop up unannounced, and controlling them is not possible. My favorite weapon is a No. 9 golf club — with one whack it gets rid of them. A daily walk around the yard is a good way to spot them, and it is good exercise. Warm, rainy weather favors fungi growth in lawns and mulched areas.

Dear Dr. Dirt: We are making a December move and would like to take many of our perennials along. Should we dig and pot them up for the move, or is there an easier way? — Lisa, Greenwood

Dear Reader: A quick and easy way would be to cut them back to 5-6 inches for a handle, dig them bare root and place them in garbage bags with enough peat moss to cover the roots to keep them from drying. This should protect the roots from freezing down to 28 degrees or so. Once they are planted in the new location, mulch with 3-4 inches of shredded tree leaves, straw or peat moss. The mulch will allow the roots to get started before the ground freezes deeply.

Dear Dr. Dirt: Our Knock Out roses are nearly four feet tall. Should they be cut back and mulched for the winter? — Margret, Indianapolis

Dear Reader: It would be better to tie the canes together with plastic twine or light rope and add 12 inches of mulch around the base of each bush. In late winter or early spring, the bushes may be pruned back to 18-20 inches and fertilized once a month through August.

Dear Dr. Dirt: Our privet hedge has grown to nearly 10 feet tall. Is it ok to prune it back to four feet? If so, when? — Phil, Indianapolis

Dear Reader: Plants grow while we sleep, so they can easily become overgrown. Privet is an easy plant to rejuvenate. This coming winter cut it back to within 4-6 inches of the ground. Then as the new growth reaches 8-10 inches, pinch or prune the shoots to force multiple branching and a thick, dense hedge. Otherwise, the new growth will grow straight up like a beanpole.

Dear Dr. Dirt: Our beautiful little Japanese maple is hardly growing. It is only about three feet high. What does it need to make it grow? — Julie, Indianapolis

Dear Reader: Japanese maples are noted for their beauty and slow growth. This is what makes them so expensive. It takes several years to grow this tree to a marketable plant. Thus, one just has to be patient and nurture to tree along with mulch and water during periods of dry summer weather.

Dear Dr. Dirt: What would cause 20-foot evergreens to die from the inside? Do they need help? — Sandra

Dear Reader: It is natural for the internal foliage of evergreens to die. This is the old growth that gives up after several years. Thus there is no problem. Since it has turned dry in early November it would be wise to deep water the plants before the ground freezes.

Dr. Dirt has the answers: solvegardenproblems@gmail.com.