Carbone

Carbone is Major Food Group’s tribute to the mid-century Italian-American restaurant, a hearty embrace and reclamation of red-sauce cuisine, with tile floors inspired by The Godfather, consummate-hustler captains in Zac Posen burgundy tuxedos that match the color of the upholstery, and a kitchen with impressive technique. It’s relentlessly pricey and dripping with shtick, but also undeniably fun and delicious — especially the table-side Caesar, the supercolossal veal Parmesan, the garlic-and-chile-suffused angel-hair pasta, and a limited-supply white lasagna sold by the pan that could feed an entire crew of Sopranos celebrating an acquittal.