Mani in Pasta

Roman-style pizza in teglio (or pan pizza) is the main attraction at this East Village Italian restaurant, and it is a knockout — the crust dark and crackly around the edges, the tender crumb boasting the kind of webby, widely inscribed holes that speak of high hydration and long fermentation. In addition to pan pizza, there’s the so-called pinsa, made with the same crunchy dough but pressed thinner and shaped like a classic Neapolitan pie with a pronounced cornicione. If you like the idea of Neapolitan pizza, but not its soft and often soggy texture, this is the pie for you.