Travel

A Design Lover’s Guide to Madrid

Spain’s capital city is a major destination for the aesthetically inclined
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Madrid.Photo: Sylvain Sonnet/Getty Images

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Though often overshadowed by Barcelona, Madrid has plenty to offer travelers. Luxury hotels, world-famous museums, historic tapas bars, Michelin-starred restaurants, and high-end shops abound, from the posh Salamanca neighborhood to laid-back Malasaña. It may not have the fantastical architecture of Antoni Gaudí, but Madrid charms visitors and locals alike with its narrow, winding streets opening onto colorful plazas, such as the vibrant red Plaza Mayor and the bustling Puerta del Sol. It’s also one of the greenest cities in Spain, with an abundance of trees and public parks like the enormous Retiro Park—a must-visit on any trip to Spain’s capital. It’s easy to see a lot in a few days, as many of the city’s most important museums, including the Prado, are concentrated on the Paseo del Arte. A stroll along the Gran Vía—which Hemingway compared to Broadway and Fifth Avenue combined—will reveal elaborate Beaux Arts buildings that contrast with the more sober structures around Plaza Mayor.

Where to Stay

Hotel Villa MagnaLocated in the fashionable Salamanca district, Hotel Villa Magna occupies the site of a palace that was razed in the 1960s. Inside, the hotel’s classic decor receives some pops of color thanks to vibrant stained-glass windows, as well as Bauhaus and Vienna Secession design elements. Well-appointed rooms and suites feature luxurious textiles and spacious marble baths. The interior courtyard is a great place to relax with a glass of wine before or after dinner. From $346/night; villamagna.es

The Principal Madrid HotelThis intimate 76-room hotel boasts a central address on the Gran Vía and a chic design by Pilar García-Nieto and the team of the Barcelona-based studio Luzio. Seamlessly blending the building’s original Spanish Renaissance architecture with luxurious furnishings inspired by Manhattan lofts and London clubs, this member of Design Hotels offers a refined perch in walking distance to the major museums and Madrid’s historic center. The sixth-floor lobby, restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Ramón Freixa, and rooftop terrace have excellent views of the skyline. From $221/night; theprincipalmadridhotel.com

Where to Eat

HabaneraThis buzzy new Cuban-inspired restaurant is Madrid’s latest place to see and be seen. The colorful, tropical decor sets the stage for an inventive blend of Spanish and Caribbean cuisine as well as fruity cocktails served with paper umbrellas. Botanicals abound, from the potted palms and floral-printed chairs to the lush green wallpaper in the bathroom, where swings are a popular backdrop for Instagrammers. 28 Calle de Génova; habaneramadrid.com

Estado PuroChef Paco Roncero, who earned two Michelin stars at the Terraza del Casino in the NH Collection Casino de Madrid, returned to the humble roots of Spanish cuisine at Estado Puro. The casual, modern gastropub inside the NH Paseo del Prado serves his fresh takes on traditional tapas, like croquetas, pan con tomate topped with anchovies, and Galician-style octopus. A striking installation made of decorative hair combs draws the eye upward and toward a vintage portrait of a woman pouring a bottle of beer. 4 Plaza Canovas del Castillo; tapasenestadopuro.com

Mercado de San MiguelWhen in Madrid, you’d be remiss not to visit the Mercado de San Miguel, a historic market revitalized in 2009. Within the wrought-iron-and-glass structure near Plaza Mayor, you’ll find stalls specializing in cheese, salumi, seafood, pastries, sherry, beer, and much more. Hop from one stall to the next and take your tapas to one of the communal tables in the center of the market for a fun, affordable lunch. S/N Plaza de San Miguel; mercadodesanmiguel.es

Where to Drink

Taberna La DoloresThis tiny tapas bar in the Barrio de las Letras has been serving beer and wine since the 1920s. With a long marble bar, dark wood shelves stacked with beer steins, and a leg of jamón that bartenders carve, it looks much the same as it did in Hemingway’s day. Locals crowd around the bar for una caña (a small glass of draft beer) and crostini topped with smoked fish. 4 Plaza de Jesús; +34-914-29-22-43

El Corral de la MoreríaThis 60-year-old family-run spot boasts a reputation as Spain’s best flamenco club. Perched on a hill near the royal palace, El Corral de la Morería has hosted celebrities like Muhammad Ali, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jude Law, and Nicole Kidman. A restaurant as well as a club, it serves a full menu, but many people forgo dinner and instead crowd around the dark wood tables sipping Rioja and enjoying a performance. 17 Barrio de las Letras; corraldelamoreria.com

Where to Shop

El Corte InglésSpain’s answer to Bloomingdale’s, El Corte Inglés celebrates its 75th anniversary this year. The flagship store carries major Spanish and international brands, including Loewe, Chanel, Gucci, and Chloé. El Corte Inglés prides itself on promoting emerging Spanish designers, like Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, and its team of personal shoppers can help you discover new labels and optimize your shopping experience. Two new stores on Calle Serrano—one for men and one for women—have a more edited selection of luxury clothes, shoes, and accessories. * Multiple locations; elcorteingles.es*

CántaroFans of Spanish pottery should make a beeline to this well-stocked ceramics shop just off the Gran Vía for beautiful hand-painted plates, bowls, pitchers, and tiles from all corners of Spain. The shop sells vintage and made-to-order pieces in addition to its wide selection of ready-to-buy ceramics. 8 Calle Flor Baja; ceramicacantaro.com

What to Do

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina SofíaFounded in 1988, the Museo Reina Sofía houses a collection of over 21,000 works created from the late 19th century to the present spread out over several buildings. The Sabatini Building dates from the 18th century, when King Carlos III had it constructed as a hospital. A new structure by Jean Nouvel opened in 2005 right behind the Sabatini. In addition, two buildings within Retiro Park—the tiled Palacio de Velásquez and the wrought-iron-and-glass Palacio de Cristal—are free to visit. 52 Calle Santa Isabel; museoreinasofia.es

CaixaForumArchitecture fans shouldn’t miss this small cultural space on the Paseo del Prado constructed on the site of a former power station. Designed by Herzog & de Meuron, the building features a living wall and a bronze-topped brick cube that seems to float above the plaza. Inside, there are exhibition halls, an auditorium, a media library, lecture rooms, a bookshop, and a restaurant. 36 Paseo del Prado; obrasociallacaixa.org

Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La FloridaFrom the outside you’d never suspect it, but this nondescript little church contains a masterpiece painted by Goya in 1798. Stand in the center of the chapel and look up at the dome to admire Goya’s depiction of Saint Anthony of Padua reviving a murdered man to prove his father’s innocence. A crowd swarms around the saint, and some people appear to be leaning over a balcony. The artist’s tomb is inside the chapel. 5 Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida; sanantoniodelaflorida.es