Review: Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site

Tell me: What’s this place all about?
This is a hospital, you say? Well, it was—but one with a twist. Built by legendary Modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner (he of Palau de la Música Catalana fame) with all the features of Catalan Art Nouveau—extravagant domes, stained glass windows, epic pillars—it was designed to be a building that people enjoyed recuperating in. His vision was a garden city for nursing the sick instead of the clinical-looking spaces we still know today—buildings are oriented for maximum sun exposure, for example. When the hospital was moved further north in 2009, this site went through its own rehabilitation: into a museum and arts venue. It now hosts the runways for Barcelona Fashion Week.

What’s it like being there?
Style and substance. On top of being one of the most impressive Art Nouveau complexes you’ll see, the Sant Rafael Pavilion recreates a living, working hospital ward from the 1920s.

Is there a guide involved?
A self-guided visit with an audio tour is €20/$20 (or €16/$16 if you drop the audio element). Note that itineraries follow one-way routes, so get snap-happy as you stroll. Top tip: to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Domènech i Montaner’s death in 2023, a new combined ticket gives entry to Sant Pau and Palau de la Música Catalana for €24/$24 - available here. 

Who comes here?
It’s still an in-the-know secret. While the tourist-trail flocks to La Sagrada Família, this is yours for the exploring—without a queue or someone photo-bombing your holiday album.

Did it meet expectations?
The pavilions earned UNESCO World Heritage status, so the buildings alone are inspiring, particularly given their previous incarnation. The gardens, with lime trees and sleepy lavender bushes, make it good for the eyes and soul.

Got it. So, then, what, or who, do you think it’s best for?
This is the landmark to visit if you want a less obvious, less traveled itinerary. While locals expect you to do the Gaudí gems, they’ll be genuinely impressed if you come here—because they do.