Review: Ai Tre Scalini

First impression?
This place screams "You're in Rome!" Good restaurants are in short supply near elegant but perennially overcrowded Piazza Navona, which is maybe why this one almost feels like it's in disguise, its entrance draped with tendrils of ivy and the door lit with a glow that's discreet but warm. It's equally rustic inside: golden walls, frilly wrought-iron lanterns dangling from the exposed timber beams of the ceiling. Blown up black and white snaps of historic Rome and a chalkboard of the day’s wines complete the picture.

Cool. So who’s there?
Mostly locals—which is surprising, given its proximity to Piazza Navona, Rome's epicenter of all things irritatingly tourist.

How are the drinks?
The selection of wines and beers is impressive. We like to keep it simple, though, with an excellent red Cenereto from Lazio or a Menabrea on tap.

Worth ordering something to eat, too?
The place tends to fill up around 7:30pm, so come early—by 6:30, say—and order some small plates to go with your drinks. The green olives, doused in garlic, chilli, parsley, and fennel (€3), are deliciously moorish, as is the truffle-spiked salami (€3.50). The ricotta with truffled honey (€7) is so good you’ll want to ditch your date and take it home with you instead.