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The masked revelry of Venice Carnevale is under way, but locals and regulars know that the real fun is still on the horizon. Here are five insider facts about this year's events:
1. It doesn’t really start until week two.
Think you’ve missed out? Hardly. Though Carnevale officially kicked off on Saturday, January 23, with a boat procession on the Cannaregio, its key events don’t actually happen until the week after. In fact, you’ll probably be disappointed if you come to Carnevale now: Piazza San Marco is still in the midst of setting up for the weekend’s activities and there’s simply nothing to see. The heats for the Best Masked Costume Contest—along with the Feste delle Marie parade, concerts, banquets, and fireworks—don’t start until Saturday, January 30, with even more events the following weekend. If you could pick just one week to be at Carnevale, organizers strongly recommend visiting from February 4–9, the most important stretch of Carnevale, when all the Grand Finale festivities take place.
2. It’s surprisingly kid-friendly.
Historically, Carnevale was a time when Venetian aristocrats and peasants alike could don masks and go wild, celebrating the period before Lenten fasting with the biggest of bacchanales. (It was a pagan ritual before that; as you can imagine, things would get a little messy.) Times have changed, and Venice is no longer a den of illicit activity during Carnevale—in fact, it’s become quite the family-friendly event. There are ice skating rinks in Campo San Polo and Piazza Ferretto; a Kid’s Carnevale runs January 31–February 7; there’s even a kid's edition of the world-famous Best Masked Costume Contest on February 8.
3. Costumes aren’t just for Venetians.
Don’t be a mere onlooker—head to one of the city’s many ateliers and rent an elaborate costume for as little as €50 for the day. Though competition is stiff, you can even try your luck and enter the the masked costume contest for free. Ateliers Pietro Longhi and Banco Lotto both rent and sell beautiful, elaborate historical costumes—think checkered Harlequin jumpsuits, Belle Époque–style sequined frocks, and enormous feathered headdresses—though you can find ateliers that cater to every taste. At the very least, get yourself a tabarro (Venetian cloak) and a mask from a traditional mascarei, found all across the city.
4. Hotels throw some of the best parties.
Though Piazza San Marco is the fulcrum of official Carnevale activities, hotels host some of the best events across the city. Aim to stay at a hotel that’s close to Piazza San Marco for easy access (essential during the last two crowded weekends of Carnevale). The Baglioni Hotel Luna, for example, is just steps from the Piazza and hosts the famous Moon Masquerade Ball (January 30) and Carnevale Dinner Show (February 6) in its spectacular Marco Polo Ballroom. For something a little lower-key, The Gritti Palace hosts a Carnevale Aperitif event (January 30-31, and February 5-6) that serves up gourmet nibbles, champagne, and mulled wine to masked partygoers prior to official Carnevale festivities. Added bonus: Right now, you can find rooms at both hotels as low as €300, a fraction of their summer rate, as January is still considered off-season in Venice, even during Carnevale.
5. The heart of Carnevale lives at Arsenale.
Piazza San Marco might be the hub of Carnevale, but any Venetian will tell you that the real party is at Arsenale, the city's spectacular historic shipyard. Here, you’ll find pop, hip-hop, and reggae concerts; burlesque, discos, and fireworks shows almost every night during the last two weeks of Carnevale. Though the Piazza hosts Carnevale's main events, Arsenale is where the festival really comes to life, particularly after hours, from 9 p.m. until 4 a.m. Admission to most events is €15, but you can purchase a Carnevale Pass that'll get you unlimited access through the duration of Carnevale for €50.
