A Local’s Guide to Bergamo, Italy

Known as much for her blaze of red hair as her jazz singing and bright, if restrained, floral arrangements, Rosalba Piccinni is a florist, artist, and entertainer. Though she easily blends flowers, food, and music at her cafe Potafiori in Milan, Bergamo, her hometown, is the place she loves above all others in Italy.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

Describe Bergamo.

Bergamo is my hometown. Perhaps it is the wind of the mountains that makes the people there so strong; perhaps the very mountains that surround us teach us to be firm in the foundations and to have stability in life projects. The smell of Bergamo for me is the fresh wind that carries the scent of hay. It reminds me of the games of the summer spent running freely in the green and picking small red fruits such as blackberries and raspberries.

Tell us about your connection to Bergamo.

My bond with Bergamo is and remains so strong; I have roots there that have allowed me to move and build new projects without losing my center.

If a friend is visiting for 24 hours, what should they do?

Walk on the Corsarola to get to the highest point of Bergamo Alta, San Vigilio. Have a morning coffee at Caffè Cavour, a perfect place to enjoy a delicious Italian breakfast. For something truly unforgettable, have an aperitivo in Piazza Vecchia, at Bar Aurora, and then enjoy your dinner on the terrace of the Baretto by Beppe. The food is beautiful, and the view of the whole city and the sunset is outstanding, when the lights of the city blend with the first stars.

What should someone go and see?

I love listening to live music: At the Donizetti Theater there is always excellent programming (we performed a jazz concert there in 2019, and it was a fantastic emotion), and for lovers of improvisation, our flower shop is always open in via Mazzini, where we often organize concerts and musical aperitifs. Bergamo in the evening is magical.

And what is your all-time favorite spot? 

Caffè-Trattoria D’Ambrosio, at Giuliana’s. Giuliana is a very dear friend and a genius; you must get to know her and see her world, which is made up of love, madness, theater, and profound truth, just like her restaurant, which is also her home. I was inspired by this lady when I decided to open Potafiori in Milan. Her restaurant is truly a one-of-a-kind place.

Give us the elevator pitch: Why should we travel to Bergamo?

Bergamo is a secret gem. Our Venetian walls that surround the city are a World Heritage Site. Get the funicular to the Bergamo Alta. Try a glass of Valcalepio, a local grape variety, and an ice cream at La Marianna.

Follow Rosalba Piccinni on Instagram @rosalbapiccinni