The best things to do in Porto

Porto may be Portugal’s second city – after Lisbon – but it did give the country its name from the Roman Portus Cale. Centuries later, the city became famous for its ‘divine nectar of the Gods’, tastings of which are highly recommended in any of the port lodges lining the riverside in Vila Nova de Gaia. From there, look across the Douro at Porto’s colourful jumble of medieval houses, soaring church towers and glossy blue and white tiled facades. Then, use the pointers below to help you weave your way through the city, dipping into its sights, sounds, tastes, and smells to get under its skin.

Spot the tiles

Azulejos are the hand-painted ceramic tiles that clad so many of Porto’s buildings. The word is derived from the Arabic, meaning “small, polished stone”. They were introduced into Portugal by the Moors when they occupied much of the Iberian Peninsula, but became widespread after King Manuel I brought the know-how back after a trip to Seville in 1503. Mainly blue and white, many of the tiles in Porto tell the Saints' lives or portray Portuguese history.

Start at the early 20th-century railway station of São Bento, in the city centre, where 20,000 hand-painted tiles by Jorge Colaço show scenes of daily life and significant moments in the country’s history. Just a few minutes’ walk away is the church of Santo Ildefonso, where 11,000 tiles – also created by Jorge Colaço – were added to the exterior of this Baroque church in 1932. Try and catch it when framed by a cloudless blue sky for the greatest impact.

Standing near the busy shopping street of Santa Catarina, Capela das Almas is probably Porto’s most photographed church. Its exterior is completely covered with tiles depicting the lives of Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Catherine of Alexandria to dramatic effect. Porto cathedral’s dark Gothic cloisters are also worth visiting for its tiles, as is the Igreja do Carmo. Its beautiful blue and white tiles were added to the exterior of the 18th-century Baroque church in 1910.

See accessible art

Art, old and new, is easily accessible in Porto. Re-opened in April after several years of closure and refurbishment, is one of Portugal’s most important museums, housed in the country’s oldest palace. Soares dos Reis National Museum has an excellent collection of Portuguese art with several highlights from the 19th-century sculptor whose name the museum bears, Antonio Soares dos Reis. Don’t miss his sculpture, O Desterrado (The Exile). Carved from Carrera marble, it is evidence of why he is sometimes called Portugal’s Michelangelo. Those who prefer contemporary art should visit the Serralves Museum, designed by Pritzker-prize-winning architect Álvaro Siza Vieira, a city local, and set in a beautiful park. Galleries where you can buy art line both sides of Miguel Bombarda Street, in the city’s Art district. Recommended are Galeria Presenca – Contemporary Art Gallery, which has regular exhibitions, and Ó! Galeria, which brims with illustrations and prints.

Feed your soul

Having admired the blue and white exterior of several churches, take some time to visit a couple more. Most notable is São Francisco Church, classified as a National Monument in 1910 and no longer used for worship. The richly gilded interiors are the best example of Baroque decoration in Porto and include the Tree of Jesse on the north wall, in gilded and painted wood. It was carved between 1718 and 1721 by Filipe da Silva and António Gomes. Also worth visiting is the Clérigos Church and Tower. Built by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni in the 18th century, its 75-metre-tall bell tower is a city landmark, and if you have the energy to climb to the top, magnificent views.

Café cruising

Just like in Italy, coffee is an integral part of Portuguese culture, with visits to a café a part of everyday life. Locals often start the day with a bica (espresso) and a pastel de nata (custard tart), and you will find cafés spilling out onto the pavements all over the city. One of the most emblematic is Café A Brasileira, with its iron and glass covering and ornate interiors. Initially opened in 1903, when it was the haunt of actors and writers, it is now part of the Pestana Hotel of the same name.

Café Guarany, on beautiful Aliados Avenue (currently under construction due to a new Metro line), opened in 1933. Since then, it has been known as the haunt of musicians. Meanwhile, Café Majestic opened in 1921 and was considered a venue for intellectuals and writers. Its Art Nouveau interiors and façade are worthy of a pause on any itinerary.

Explore the Port Lodges

Unique to Porto, these lodges which line the Douro River, are full of history and heritage. Just take a bit of time to decide what you are looking for in a visit. There is a huge choice from well-known British brands like Sandeman to Portuguese brands like Ferreira. Some have museums in the cellars, others offer premium tastings so you can really get an idea of their top ports. One of the best is Taylor’s which was founded in 1692 and is still going strong as an independent wine house. A tour includes samples of chip-dry and late-bottled vintage ports, a can of chip dry and tonic, the new ready to drink port and tonic, and an audio guide. (taylor €20)

Hit the shops

Not to be missed is the iconic Portuguese soap brand, Claus Porto, which has its flagship store here in pretty Rua das Flores. Famous for its vibrant, art nouveau packaging, its smells are equally delectable with a range that encompasses all tastes. Just out, is an addition to their male Musgo Real line. Sea-inspired Alto Mar, captures the essence of the Atlantic coast in soap, on a rope, and Eau de Toilette.

Jewellery, particularly gold, has always been an important part of Porto shopping. There are still plenty of traditional jewellery shops there displaying the characteristic gold filigree of the north of Portugal. Typical are pendants in the shape of a heart, known as the Viana heart, in a nod to the nearby city of Viana do Castelo, where the heart originated.

Chocolate is well represented here by Chocolateria Equador, which brings its beans from São Tomé and Principe and makes them into sardines, with a sprinkling of salt and algae or bars of chocolate with port wine, salted caramel and more. Found on many a street corner in the historic centre.

Such have been the queues to visit the beautiful lello bookstore, whose stairs were supposedly the inspiration for the grand staircase at Hogwarts (JK Rowling lived in Porto when she was writing her first Harry Potter book) there is now a need to buy an entrance ticket refundable on the purchase of a book. Regardless, it is indeed a lovely bookstore to browse in.

Go down the Douro

Porto is the gateway to the Douro Valley, where vineyards cascade in terraces down to the bottle-green river. You can visit the region in a tiny train that chuffs along the river banks, stopping at the little country stations, where pink bougainvillea falls over the blue and white tiled walls. Or drive out, with a planned itinerary and preferably a driver to allow you to wine taste. Or take a boat which zig zags between a couple of different Quinta’s allowing you to taste wines and ports and embrace the river life. Cruises on the Douro River

World of Wine

Far more than a museum, wow is an ambitious project worth setting an entire day aside for, and its Willy Wonka-esque chocolate story section makes it good for children too. Dive into the world of wine to learn about its journey from grape to glass, which grapes are right for you, and the different wine regions of the world before finishing with a tasting. There is a port museum, an exhibition of drinking vessels over the ages and the latest museum to join the collection, The Atkinson Museum, currently has a debut exhibition, The Dynamic Eye, on loan from the British Tate Museum, until the autumn.

A walk in the park.

Porto has its share of lovely gardens to walk around, not to mention a beach within easy reach at Foz, where the river Douro meets the Atlantic. There is the treetop walk in the Parque de Serralves, which is suspended above the park in the canopy line of the trees. There is also the São Roque Gardens, where ancient gardens surround a recently restored house, now a contemporary art museum, but best of all are the large gardens that surround the Crystal Palace. Filed with peacocks and offering views of the Douro River, it is as good a place as any to finish a few days of exploration.