The vibe
Patron of the preserved lemon, Ottolenghi could turn a shoe box into London’s restaurant of the moment. It would be like Vice’s Shed, but most probably excellent. He’s had the experience after all – Rovi is his sixth London restaurant – and only the second one to not include his name. Homely and inviting, the restaurant in Fitzrovia is similar in set up to the Ivy, with a revolving bar by the entrance alongside a few of Ottolenghi’s signature communal tables set up in the corner.
Menu highlights
The restaurant’s theme, ‘fermentation and cooking over fire’, sounds a bit ominous, perhaps how you’d spend your first day after the apocalypse. The Scandi-influenced cooking styles are, however, simplistic and delicious. Case in point, the hot tomatoes with cold yoghurt and urfa chilli are exceptionally fresh and incredibly flavoursome. The tempura stems and herbs – which pair excellently with the summer spritz cocktail – with Szechuan pepper and elderflower vinegar are moreish, verging on addictive.
The celeriac shawarma with bkeila and fermented tomato is hearty and tangy. The grilled halibut is a menu highlight, the smoked fish butter curry, coconut and einkorn roti (which claims to be for two to share) is a dreamy combination of silky smooth curry with beautifully spiced halibut.
The verdict
Pitch up by the revolving bar as Rovi is your new favourite central London restaurant.
59 Wells St, Fitzrovia, London W1A 3AE. Ottolenghi.co.uk/rovi
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