How to spend a tropical holiday in Antigua

Antigua is one of the world’s more accessible paradise islands – there are daily eight-hour flights from the UK. A lush verdant interior, scattered with colourful villages and churches, gives way to pristine sandy beaches and startling blue sea. When you tire of the sun lounger you can explore historical sites, such as Nelson’s Dockyard – the world’s only working Georgian dockyard – and Betty’s Hope, a picturesque restored sugar mill that tells of the island’s troubled history of slavery. Adrenaline junkies will enjoy zip-wiring through rainforest or taking kite-surfing lessons, while those looking for complete relaxation can enjoy sea-facing sunrise yoga, or gentle hikes on fragrant headlands. Relish the opportunity to swim with stingrays and snorkel with turtles, and when you get hungry you can eat conch fritters from roadside shacks or lobster salad at a gourmet restaurant. Whether you choose an high-end all-inclusive resort or a laid-back local b&b, you’ll be sure to find a friendly welcome.

• How to spend your weekend

• Insider tips

• When should I visit Antigua?

• Where to stay in Antigua

• What to bring home

• Essential information: what to know before you go

Head east to Half Moon Bay to enjoy the morning sunshine and have a bracing dip in the Atlantic ocean. There’s almost alway surf crashing onto this arc of white sand, which will be sure to cure any rum hangover. If that doesn’t do the trick, then grab a Nespresso coffee from the machine at the Beach Bum Bar and Grill.

If the beach doesn’t pull you in for a morning of lounging, call a taxi (try Cleo Henry at Simply Ask Cleo, 1-268- 773-5976) and head to Betty's Hope Sugar Plantation. This was the island's first sugar plantation, built in 1650, and it ran for 300 years, first with slaves and then with island labourers. The information boards in the restored old mill will fill you in on the island's history of slavery as well as the story of sugar production.

Head to the magical Cecilia’s High Point Cafe for a spot of lunch. Take a table on the white-washed verandah overlooking a palm-tree-fringed sea and tuck into delicious plates of homemade pasta or lobster salad. 

If you can drag yourself away from the conviviality of Cecilia, head into the capital St John for a spot of shopping. At Heritage Quay you’ll find shops selling jewellery, perfumes, leather goods and branded clothes such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Guess. You’ll get a duty-free price if you remember to bring your passport and airline ticket with you. Further south is the historic Redcliffe Quay, where the shops become more boutique and arty. Try Rastapasta for Afro-Caribbean crafts such as jewellery, hammocks, handmade bags and musical instruments. You’ll also find similar products in the nearby vendor’s market, where you can haggle the price.

While in Redcliffe Quay it would be churlish not to stop for an aperitivo at C&C Wine House, where you can sit in a pretty courtyard picking on olives and coconut shrimp while enjoying a glass of chilled South African white wine. You may get sucked in and find yourself still sitting here at midnight, particularly if it’s a Friday night, when you’ll be joined by the after-work crowd. But for a change of scene head to Beachlimerz on the west-facing Fort James beach where you can watch the sun go down and 'lime' with the locals, perhaps to the sound of a steel band or some live reggae.  

Get ahead of the cruise-ship crowds and head to the Antigua Rainforest Zipline tour for some adrenaline-fueled fun in the rainforest canopy. If you’re feeling particularly brave add on the optional challenge course at the end, which is much more nerve-wracking as you tackle tightropes and overcome obstacles.

While you wait for your heartbeat to return to normal, browse the artworks in the Fig Tree art studio down the road or if you fancy exploring the forest further head to Wallings Nature Reserve, where you can walk among the silk cotton trees.

You’ll be ready for lunch after all that fresh air, so it’s time to head to the beach. Try Pigeon Point, the main beach on the south coast, just at the mouth of Falmouth Harbour. Here you’ll find Catherine’s Café sur la Plage where you can sip ice-cold rosé and eat French-influenced dishes such as escargots and steak frites.

After a little snooze on the beach, you’ll be ready to explore historic Nelson’s Dockyard and wander around the shops and boutiques of English Harbour – try Zenergy Boutique on Dockyard Drive for cute clothes and souvenirs.

In season (December to May), English Harbour is the place to be in the evening and the bars fill up as the sun goes down. For dinner try either Pillars for waterfront dining in historic Nelson’s Dockyard, or Trappas, for a plate of surf and turf or grilled fish. If you feel like dancing the night away then head to Abracadabra, which is open until 3am on Fridays and Saturdays.

If you want some fun in the sea you could try the new Swash Water Park off the shore of Darkwood Beach. It’s a large inflatable structure that you clamber over and slide down and is as much fun for adults as it is children. The beach itself is pretty lovely, too.

Don’t bother changing your money to the Eastern Caribbean dollar because you won’t be able to take any remaining currency out of the country. Instead, take US dollars which will be widely accepted everywhere you go.

In the rare instances where it’s not accepted – like at a roadside shack – your taxi driver will probably be able to change US$10 for you.

The Sunday night sunset party at Shirley Heights is always at the top of an Antigua “must do” list. However they now also have a party on a Thursday night, which is much quieter but still has the same upbeat vibe and a live band. If you want to take a sunset selfie without the crowds, Thursday is the night to do it.

If you opt to stay in a villa or b&b then you don’t have to miss out on the experience of a luxury all-inclusive resort. Many of the island’s popular hotels are happy to sell day passes, which allow you to eat in the restaurants, drink in the bars, lounge by the pool and use the watersports. A good option is Galley Bay Resort and Spa, only 15 minutes from the capital.

Antiguans are very proud of their black pineapple. It is said to have a much higher sugar content and lower acidity than more common varieties of pineapple; the combination makes the fruit especially pleasing to the palate.

Antigua is blessed with a year-round warm and sunny climate but the best time to go is during the season (December to May), when the yachts turn up for winter sun and the bars and restaurants are fully open. Many sailing events happen during this time, culminating in Antigua Sailing Week at the end of April, which will explain the occasional spike in flight prices. January to July is also the cricket season and prices get expensive if England is scheduled to play. You will get the best deals from May to mid-November, but the nightlife hub English Harbour will be quieter and some restaurants outside resorts will have reduced opening hours. One advantage of travelling in the summer is you might catch the 10-day carnival, which runs over the last week of July and first week of August.

A charming, refined resort running along a headland boasting a beach on either side – one with surf, one calm. The atmosphere at Curtain Bluff is familial with a weekly cocktail party hosted at the home of Lady Hulford. Food is excellent and service is top-notch – little wonder the same guests return year after year. 

Double rooms from £580 in low season; and start from £1,265 in high. All-inclusive. Carlisle Bay; 0800 051 8956

The secluded Hermitage Bay is a beachside resort of 30 wooden cottage suites. The Hillside suites are the most private and feature a wraparound open-air deck that has a private plunge pool, lounge area, day bed and dining area. Come for the early morning yoga and pilates, the fresh local produce and the impeccable service. This is a place to relax and revitalise. 

Doubles from US$1,200 (£918). Jennings New Extension; 00 1 855 596 2747

Jolly by name, jolly by nature.  Jolly Beach Resort is a lively three-star all-inclusive hotel that occupies a prime spot on a curve of white sandy beach on Antigua’s west coast. A timetable of activities includes aqua aerobics, beach and pool volleyball, coconut bowling and tie dye. The large 'fantasy' pool has a swim-up bar and there is a quiet pool as well.

Doubles from US$205 (£162). Bolans Village

You’ll be spoilt for choice for bottles of rum, but you don’t want to carry home any old liquor. Go for a bottle of English Harbour that’s been aged for five years. It’s won loads of awards and is pricey to buy in the UK.

Hot sauce is an island staple and will let you add some Antiguan warmth to your cooking. Look out for the Home Brew brand or for something a little less firey try Grannie Annie’s pepper sauce.

Both the rum and the sauce can be bought at Epicurean Fine Foods & Pharmacy in St John (North Street; 00 1 268 484 5400).

Flight time: (from UK) 8 hours

Currency: Eastern Caribbean dollars, but US dollars are widely accepted.

International dialling code: 00 1

• As many of the tourists come from the US, tipping has become expected, including leaving tips for maids in hotel rooms on departure.
  
• Helpfully the licence plates of buses contain the word BUS and those of taxis contain the letters TX. Buses, however, are not often used by tourists as they mainly run between the capital St John and the local villages, rather than the hotels or the airport, and the service stops at 6pm.
• Taxis are safe and government regulated. Taxis will provide a fixed fare for journeys, rather than operating a meter and all taxis should include a rate card. Taxi drivers will also often provide a tour guide service. If you want a more upmarket chauffeur service, try St James Travel and Tours (00 1 268 562 2192).
• If you want to hire your own car you will need to show your current driving licence and pay US$20 for a local licence. The speed limit is 40mph. There is a rumour that taxi drivers have removed all the street signs to discourage self-drive, so you may get lost!
• It is an offence for anyone, including children, to dress in camouflage clothing.
• LGBT+ couples should be wary that some homosexual acts are illegal in Antigua and a public display of affection can be met with negative attention.
• Antigua is a generally safe island but it is advisable to lock valuables in a hotel safe and be careful of valuables when at street parties or in crowded areas.
• Take care when swimming as currents can be strong, and always refrain from swimming when red flags are flying.

Antonia Windsor grew up in Jersey and exploring other islands is a passion. As an Antigua expert she visits several times a year but has still only managed to sit on about a quarter of the island’s 365 beaches.