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No Sesso’s Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph might be from Los Angeles, but they’re quickly making a name for themselves in New York. Last season was undoubtedly a breakout moment for them; the duo was named CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists just a few months later.

After fall’s vibrant patchwork knits, Davis and Randolph were in a darker mood for spring. They leaned into their more provocative instincts too, opening the show with a black asymmetric dress that was completely sheer and finished with knife pleats that fluttered high on one thigh. The emphasis on skin was a running theme: think cycling shorts with curvy cutouts in the rear; G-strings layered over short shorts; and teeny-tiny bralettes that left little to the imagination. Even the more unassuming pieces, like a simple cropped polo shirt, came with a backless twist. “Sexy summer” was how they summed up the overall mood.

No Sesso has a soft spot for utilitarian details—see the label’s excellent collaboration with Levi’s for proof—and the standout pieces came with cool cargo pockets, including a slinky spaghetti strap black dress that swept the floor. The ruched nylon pants with asymmetric pockets and layered drawstrings were another good example and had commercial appeal.

Indeed, it seems the pair is moving away from their upcycling roots. The homespun, one-of-kind designs that first put them on the map were markedly absent from the lineup. It would have been nice to have had some of those seductive handmade touches back on the agenda.