Elena Braghieri is an Italian photographer with an inspiring Instagram account filled with her sun-soaked shots. A globe-trotter and an expert in hotspots, Braghiere agreed to share her best places on the island of Alicudi with Vogue.
The Italian Photographer Elena Braghieri walks us through the island of Alicudi
Elena Braghieri: “Alicudi is often called “the island of silence”, but I prefer to call it “boule de neige” (French for snowball). It's the second smallest of the Aeolian Islands, a perfect volcanic cone inside the Klein-blue sea, and is probably the most authentic and primitive of the Sicilian archipelago. Once you get there via hydrofoil (there’s a direct one leaving from Palermo) you can start breathing its energy right at the harbour: no cars are allowed, because there are no streets. A group of colored fishing boats and crystal clear water welcome you to the island, together with a few donkeys, the sole means of transport suitable for those carrying heavy things.”
“There are no fancy boutiques, no ATMs and the island counts less than 100 residents in wintertime. There are two small grocery shops, one bar/restaurant “L’airone”, a little post office, and then the only way to fully live the island is to climb up along the mules tracks, like a giant staircase to the sky. Every distance is measured by stairs from the harbour: the little school, the smallest in Europe, is 357 stairs, the old San Bartolo Church is 750 steps."
“The more you go uphill, the sweeter the silence becomes. It's the real luxury of the island together with an explosion of uncontaminated nature. The silence is so clear that you can even hear the sound of the sea waves from above the mountain: waking up on the island is pure magic. The sun rises behind the nearby island of Filicudi, accompanied by the only sound of roosters and the wash of the waves.
Accommodation is part of the experience: there are no hotels and no ordinary comforts. The real deal is to rent a room in one of the typical Aeolian houses along the mountain. I have two recommendations: Casa Tre Archi is a newly refurbished, chic house run by the charming Elise and her daughter Elena. It's situated in the Tonna area, about 300 paces from the harbor. Elise’s sophisticated taste is reflected not only in the details of the house but also in the small boutique she has set up shop to sell her creations, which is well worth a visit. Her lucky charms have become the real souvenir from the island.”
“The second is called La Monachedda, which is a little house with a breathtaking view about 250 meters about the sea. It's Roberto's nest, and he decorated the house himself, filling it with his own paintings on glass. It's a bit of a hike to get to la Monachedda - I don't recommend it for lazy people! In terms of cuisine, you absolutely have to go to Silvio's place. On a terrace under a starry sky, you can try the most popular fisherman of the island's fish. If you're lucky enough, you will taste his famous grilled moray.”
“Alicude is a true hidden treasure. Isolation here is pure bliss.”
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