You know how we’ve sought comfort in dopamine dressing over the past year or so? As runways across the world return to their full glory, it only gets better. There’s a whole new palette of colours to obsess over — and we’ve found the one. Say hello to Dahlia, the fine line between deep purple and ultra violet that's dominating the S/S 22 shows.
As a theme, designers are making an active shift back to vivid jewel tones. Just earlier this year, the colour made an appearance at the presidential inaugural ceremony with Vice President Kamala Harris’ all-purple outfit. The colour was representative of unity, a new era of socio-political power and her lineage, as she chose emerging Louisiana-based black designer Christopher John Rogers for possibly the most monumental moment of her life.
Other women of colour also took to purple to power-dress and celebrate moments of impact. In early 2021, Bollywood’s favourite fashion girl, Deepika Padukone, was spotted in a sleek Alex Perry outfit at the prestigious Crystal Awards at the World Economic Forum in Switzerland, where she was honored for her contribution in spreading awareness around mental health. CFDA’s Fashion icon of the year Zendaya paid a tribute to her all-time idol Beyonce by recreating her vintage Versace look — circa 2003— for the 2021 BET Awards. Finally, Camilla Cabello recently made her debut in a cut-out Micheal Kors gown (Kors is said to have described it as ‘chic and ballsy’) at the 2021 MET gala which, let’s face it, is the ultimate symbol of power in fashion and pop culture today.
And if that wasn’t enough, designers gave the pantone-approved colour a nod this season through fresh and modern interpretations. Spotted at the shows of the most iconic fashion houses including Saint Laurent, Valentino and Lanvin, it’s evident that the trend is a way to get people to embrace colour, reclaim their power and make an unapologetic statement without restraint. Valentino experimented with gender-neutral, free-flowing shapes; Lanvin focused on after-dark outerwear with coats and slinky pleated dresses. Of course, no one does grown-up luxe like Saint Laurent, who used the colour in monotone jumpsuits that really didn’t need much else. Funnily enough, while it wasn’t always the primary colour at every show, most collections just didn’t seem complete without it – inevitably making it the standout colour of the season.
Closer to home, Payal Khandwala’s new drop had this tone of Dahlia purple across pleated ponchos, handwoven silk saris and kurtas. Khandwala says, “I used it in our very first collection when we launched the label and have been using it generously since. It’s striking and beautiful on Indian skin tones.” Purple plays a prominent part in the new festive collections of Rahul Mishra, Ri by Ritu Kumar and Jayanti Reddy.
How to Wear It
It’s all or nothing, essentially. Every celeb did head-to-toe purple and it’s hard to imagine doing it any other way. Take Hailey Bieber’s cozy knitted sweater with a thigh high slit skirt as inspo for a night out. If you’re in work mode, perhaps you’ll find Deepika Padukone’s powersuit or Alia’s jumpsuit ideal. Want to go OTT and steal the spotlight (or hearts)? Take a cue from Saint Laurent and Loewe’s high-shine dresses. If you’re reluctant to get rid of your cozy pandemic PJs and want to ease in, Sandro’s co-ord sweatsuit is the perfect choice. Who said anything about comfort not being powerful?
London’s cool girl and founder of ByRotation, UK’s first fashion rental app, Eshita Kabra gave us her take on the trend. “I love mixing up purple with my autumnal wardrobe. Purple is a classic colour - it’s kind of a fun version of navy.”
If you’re feeling particularly inspired to mix it up, Khandwala’s tips are sure to be of help — “I’ve always loved colour-blocking with this shade. It works so well with red, chartreuse, citrine and a leaf green. If it’s brocade, it marries well with metallic gold yarn in silks. Pairing it with neutrals like white or coffee bean brown gives it a nice contrast. I’d complete the outfit with a silver or brass accessory for the whole look to be both dramatic and memorable.”
